engine drop question
 

Hi guys getting ready to do the first time dreaded engine drop to replace
my front and rear seals. And whatever other oil leaks I can find.
Do you really need to drop both the engine and transmission together
or is it just as easy to drop just the engine and leave the transmission
in place. It's a 73T 2.4 with a 901 transmission.
Thanks in advance.
Mike

Engine and trans together is the way to go. Trying to get just the engine out is a PTA.

+1, I'm sure most others will say the same.

engine drop
 

drop em together.

For Sure Together. We know the Wayne's 101 book says engine only, but that was just his best idea when he wrote that book. The best collective advice now is yes, drop both together as one unit, then separate, if necessary when out on your dolly. It's fun! Do it!

And remember to post the required picture!

Thanks guys was thinking that just the one piece would be smaller and
seemed as it may me easier to handle but will take a look at both together.
Thanks
Mike

Thanks Scot it was Waynes book that I was reading and yes I will post
the "required" picture.

So why does the 101 book show the engine only?

I've dropped and raised these at least 40 times, and together is the way to go.

Hi Mike. When I dropped my 2.7L with a 915 for the first time it was relatively easy to take them out as one unit. I had a hoist and a floor jack with a transmission cradle.

Hi Jaybird12 I don't, have a hoist but I do have jack stands and a couple floor jacks
So I thought I would attach some blocks of wood to a piece of 3/4" ply wood and
Some dolly wheels and make a platform with those.

Get a cheap skateboard and cut the kicktail off of it. Screwing a couple blocks to it on either side of the center rib helps too.

Not to mention, they come out more balanced as a set. The balance point is at the bell housing.

Its really simple ..i did it the first time in my 88 two weekends ago after about 2 hours unhooking things, the actual drop took 30 minutes.... A big flr jack, bunch of wood blocks and a 15 dollar furntiure dolly from hf is all you need ...the trans connected balances out the engine weight and greatly simplifies the operation. Soak the trans and engine mt bolts in pb blaster o. N. . Be sure to completely unhook the shifter from the trans!! Good luck frank

Pulling the engine only is easy...but when reinstalling...try to get the throw out bearing and the cases lined up with no room to see...and your hand jambed into the most difficult space you can imagine.
Out as a pair...in as a pair.
Bob

Get those jack stands as high as you can and take off the rear valence to get as much clearance as you can. It's certainly a two maybe three man job for your first time. Make sure one guy is watching the shifter linkage so it doesn't get hung up. You'll ruin the seal on the tranny if you put much weight on the shaft that sticks out. Ask me how I know!

Good luck. It's certainly doable.

I recall Wayne posting something about having (or having heard of) stripped CV joint bolt heads and the problems that could cause.

I like prepping the engine/tranny for removal -- all the way to the four bolts -- and then lowering the car as much as possible while still being able reach the tranny bolts. That way you don't have to lower the engine so far. Once it is free, I jack up the car again. I didn't have to remove the valence or bumper, but a friend always does on his car.

Harbor Freight always has dollies on sale. Attach some plywood to one of those.

Shawn

Or even softer Pine planks, they are much softer and gentler to the case. I love using the HF motor cycle jack, very stable wide base. the lock is a bonus when propped up.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys I like the skate board idea and I think I may have
An old one of my son's in the crawl space.
Do you raise the front wheels off the floor as well to keep the car a bit level or just raise
The rear and block the front wheels?
Thanks
Mike