on 4 cylinders at idle (longish)

[si2t3m]

Seems like 2 cylinders are still giving me trouble.

#2 and #3 that is.

When under load, i can feel the 2 cylinders coming to life when i give it gas.
At steady speeds i can feel the car hesitate. Giving it gas again seems to clear things up.

Checking all the plugs after this shows that four of them are nice and tan but the electrodes on number 2 and 3 are on the white side (lean).

I cleaned the plugs and even put a set of new one in but this time I let it idle. Pulled the plugs again, four of them are still tan but number 2 and 3 are now pretty much black.

They are not wet, just black.

Checked with propane for leaks around the intake, and throttle bores on the webers. No change in RPM.

At idle, turning the mixture screws all the way in doesn't change a thing on these 2. I can clearly hear and see a change on all the four other when turning them in slowly.

Also at idle pulling the plugs wires out on these 2 doesn't change a thing.

New cap, new rotor, new wires (magnecor KV85) new BP6ES plugs. Even tried with BP7ES plugs too.

Valves have been ajusted. Carbs are synched pulling equal volume on each. Had to open up the air mixture screw much more on number 3 than on the others...

On thing that bothers me is that i got some of those turbo exhaust port gaskets. The all metal ones.

Could an exhaust leak at the exhaust port cause this?

At idle, i can hear this 'hissing sound'. But maybe this is the watershield setup doing this. Was used to the air box when I had my 2.2 in there and it quiet things up a bit (but i like the sound of the 3.0L with the watershield setup better!)

I'm really clueless now.

any help appreciated


Marc-André Morin
914-6 conversion 3.0L Webers.

[john walker's workshop]

sounds like the carbs are drooling gas down their throats on those two holes. a dirty float valve probably. look down the bores with the engine running and see if they're dripping gas. black plugs usually mean too much fuel. the other option is poor spark, causing incomplete burning. exhaust leaks don't cause a miss.

[Superman]

Black plugs do indeed suggest too much gas. And as far as looking down into a carburetor as the engine is running....some of my most exciting moments with engines have come at moments like that. My eyebrows eventually grew back. Other exciting moments include grabbing ignition wires with the engine running and stabbing the starter using a screwdriver with the car in gear. Fun stuff. Oh, and trying to start an engine with a fuel hose unhooked. Memorable.

[si2t3m]

Hi again,

here is a pictures of the plugs.


i didn't show the others as they are like #1 and #4.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll check the needle valves again. Float level has been checked (with the tool).

Regarding spark, timming light shows activity but i don't know if i'm getting a 'big' spark or not.

I seached again in the archives and this got me to pull the dizzy out again to check the endplay...

Humm about 1/8 of play... This got me thinking that i should go back to the dizzy... Could it be that for some reason 2-3 are not getting proper spark because the rotor is sitting lower and not making proper contact on these 2 (2-4-3 are on the 'low' side of the dizzy but 4 is firing ok...). When I hit the go pedal, the gears tend to get the shaft to go up and proper contact is made between the rotor and cap?

I did try to take the dizzy apart but I'm now stuck. Under the felt located under the rotor, unlike the earlier dizzy's there is a bolt instead of a circlip. So i Took it out. Also took the 3 allen bolts holding the magnetic part around the reluctor in the dizzy. I can now move the top part of the shaft (i'm thinking that it's in 2 parts) up a bit but something seems to be holding it, preventing it to come out. Any how to would be apreciated.

Also what could I use as shims to get it back to the proper specs. Oh one last thing this dizzy doesn't have and vacuum canister on it.

TIA

Marc-André Morin
914-6 conversion 3.0L, Webers