Sorry for not answering JW Workshop. I have not had the warm idle set with a gas analyzer. The idle mixture that works for warm up is way too lean for warm condition and the car stalls. To add fuel while warm seems to take a lot of extra fuel. And, that would lead (has seemed to lead) to a way to rich condition for cold start/warm up. But, that will be my next try.

The AAR opens to about 3/4 of the way at freezer temperature. Going all the way open would not increase the open area much as the movable hole is smaller than the diameter of the air inlet and outlet tubes and is mostly open at 3/4, so I think AAR is fine.

I'll need the warm idle to stabilize so I can check for air leaks anyway.

I do know a shop with a multi-gas analyzer. But, I would think we could get it to at least idle (cold and warm) without requiring a sophisticated tool. At least, that is my hope.

Thanks for the help. We are narrowing down the possibilities.

Test for vacuum leaks before adjusting the mixture.
The best D.I.Y. method is to apply about 5-10 ps air to the system after sealing it off, and use soapy water or leak detector solution to show where any leaks are.
There have been a number of good posts about this method recently. (last 2 months)
You'll just get frustrated playing with the mixture if there are any vacuum leaks.

you need to set the hot idle to some reasonable mixture setting first, then you can go back and deal with how the WUR is when it's cold if necessary.richening hot idle will add some richness to cold idle. if it's still bad, you probably need to make it adjustable. plenty of threads on that. nothing is going to change hot idle by screwing with cold WUR settings.

[QUOTE=L8apex32;7151559]. But, I would think we could get it to at least idle (cold and warm) without requiring a sophisticated tool. At least, that is my hope.
QUOTE]

yes, it's called a long 3mm allen wrench to ear-ball the hot idle. when it's hot, stick it in the adjuster hole and go clockwise a couple of degrees. maybe a couple more degrees if needed. you should see it perk up. idle speed about 1000 while you do it.

CIS troubleshooting.......
 

Do not tinker or adjust the mixture screw setting until you are 99.9% sure that you don't have any significant air/vacuum leak/s in the system. If tests have confirmed and verified the absence of significant air leak/s in your engine, then it is time to go play with the mixture.

There is no logical reason to check or even set your air mixture if you have undetected air leak/s. Since you don't know if your vacuum is compromised, you are simply hoping you don't have any. In summary, you are guessing!!!!!

BTW, the AAR-201 you have is not the correct unit for your engine. CIS troubleshooting is easy and simple if you stay away from guess-work. Test and verify, and from the data you will collect, the culprit/s would show up like a sore thumb.

Tony

I just re-read your first post. You claim there are no air leaks so....

As John has stated, you need to get it to run well if just a little rich to start.
It sounds like you have already been messing around with the mixture.
When you adjust the mixture you need to make small incremental adjustments and go drive it between each adjustment.
Finding the "sweet spot" takes some time.
When I took the time to do it right, mine came in almost perfect at the right mixture when I put a gunson tester on it a month later.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/232089-cis-idle-speed-mixture-setting-without-analyzer.html

you guys sure get carried away about air leaks. sure it's a remote possibility, but unlikely 99% of the time.

LOL, my 2 plastic crappy leaking airboxes make me paranoid.
This one has cured that problem... :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1355692749.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1355692817.jpg