You are probably correct in that the dist connection is not bunged up (if unmolested). The ground and trigger wire plug into the hall effect coil pack in the dist with a pretty robust connection. Believe there is a rubber seal that keeps out moisture and a machine screw and fastener arm that holds the plastic connector in place against the side of the distributor.

FWIW - I would not call it continuity though as the green wire center trigger wire and outer shielding plug into the dist coil pack terminals. There is 545 ohms of resistance in my two wires. I said 675 above and I think that is a little off. I have a pic buried in here of one that shows 595.

I did unplug the green wire from the connection to my MSD box before testing. There is no resistance from the MSD box between those connection points but I don't have a clue what happens on the box side.

Just set your ohm meter to 2000 and touch the green wire leads and look for the 550-600 ohms with everything off. If you read that range your coil pack is probably ok. If you get an off reading, disconnect the green wire from the Permatune and double check on the dist side for the resistance.

Also, correct on not getting 12V at the coil primary terminals when key is on.

+1

I messed with my two previous Permatune boxes enough to cause the female connectors to push back into the wiring harness at the CD box connection. Some of it was the age of the connector but most of the damage was from a fat fingered noob (me).

I did the resistance test between the inner/outer parts of green wire and got 589 so I think that is ok. I also confirmed continuity of the pins in the 6 pin harness to the inner/outer green wire, +12 volt wire, grounds and coil.

I also killed my battery with all the cranking and it now won't take a charge from trickle charger. grrr......

I plan to put another battery in it. maybe all the wire jostling has fixed a loose connection but that's probably wishful thinking. Last resort is tow to shop if I can't think of anything else to check.

Chill on the towing - a suggestion. :-)

For $300 you can install an MDS box. For a few hundred more you can get a used or rebuilt Bosch box - I think?

How you are able to connect the six pin wire connector to a seven pin permatune box? I don't get that.

Here is your box connection all blowed up:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1355796738.jpg

Here is a six pin Bosch box - fuzzy but still viewable

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1355796823.jpg

Your just plugs in? How? Seems like it wouldn't fit.

You sure you have the rotor in there?
Sure the coil wires are on the correct terminals?
14 pin connector nice and snug connection? No pins pushed back?

my Permatune is the 8 pin version (really 7 since one unused) for the 930 and it uses a plug and play adapter to connect to the 6 pin SC harness. 2 of the 8 pins on the cdi are unused. it was working perfectly in the car like this for 2 1/2 years I've owned it and probably many years before that. yesterday I swapped it into NOLAsc's SC (with the adapter harness) and it fired up immediately. so the CDI and its harness is not the problem.

all the pins look fine. the rotor and cap look fine (2 years old).

I will check the coil wires but I'm almost certain I put them in the right place.

I guess one possibility is the new coil I got is bad out of the box. unlikely but not impossible.

my Permatune is the 8 pin version (really 7 since one unused) for the 930 and it uses a plug and play adapter to connect to the 6 pin SC harness. 2 of the 8 pins on the cdi are unused. it was working perfectly in the car like this for 2 1/2 years I've owned it and probably many years before that. yesterday I swapped it into NOLAsc's SC (with the adapter harness) and it fired up immediately. so the CDI and its harness is not the problem.

all the pins look fine. the rotor and cap look fine (2 years old).

I will check the coil wires but I'm almost certain I put them in the right place.

I guess one possibility is the new coil I got is bad out of the box. unlikely but not impossible.

Cool - It has to be something silly.

I can't imagine that you have two bad coils -- the one that ran right before the engine came out and the replacement...

Ignition coil..........
 

schumicat,

Could you post picture of the new ignition coil? There is a particular Bosch ignition coil that is made south of the border that tend to be bad coming from the box. Keep us posted.

Tony

My new coil is a univeral Accel coil sold at Autozone and most FLAPS. I've read in posts here that it should work fine with an SC running permatune. However, I'm now thinking my old coil (Bosch black) may be fine. The resistances check out fine. It doesn't make slosh sound (oil) when shaken, but I'm not sure that is definitive. I may try to swap it back. I thinking (hoping) the problem is a wire that needs to be jostled the right way....

Get down with your bad self on checking continuity. Tedious crap work but I bet that is where your problem lies.

Double check the 14 pin connector in the far rear driver's corner. If you pulled the engine that had to be disconnected. I have not researched to determine what feeds what but that connector is the life blood of the car. There are male and female mating connectors that can get pushed back out of the housing and you will not have a clue unless you pop it open and take a look.

That's the connector by the heater blower fuse panel? Could there also be a problem at the one by the firewall? I've heard you could spread the male parts a bit for better contact (that doesn't sound right).

Jaysus Schumi... You gotta get that car back on the road.

update... new battery, old coil back on and ....

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g304/schumicat/911start_zps4ebf9694.mp4

Of course now the fuel pump is squealing like Ned Beaty in Deliverance. It only started doing that when I was trying to diagnose the lack of spark and doing lots of cranking. Car will stall if I try to give it gas. I think the fuel pump is dying and is barely moving any fuel. But at least the damn thing started.

thanks to all who helped.

Very cool.

so your problem was a bad battery?

no, that was effect not cause. if the starter cranks the battery isn't the problem. all the cranking killed the battery.

how did u fix it? I have an 84 911 3.2, couple of weeks ago it died in traffic and wont start. I have no spark, Relay is operational, cylinder head temp sensor's resistance is within range...