I've done exactly this job on my SC. Go ahead, purchase new rubber hoses, flare wrenches, and PB Blaster or equiv. and pre-soak flexible hose nuts. Replace the hoses - this is a must with all the great work you have put in. You deserve the entire rebuild experience - make sense?

Your brakes will end up feeling great. But you must wait for all the rough edges (so to speak) of new seals bedding to match their riding surface, in both caliper and MC, pads wearing to match rotor and thus increase braking footprint, and of course the bubbles to sort out. Do, however, be aware of how to break in the pads you have purchased - that is key.

I have always preferred an old-fashioned foot pedal bleed to end my bleeding session, just my ought-two.

Keep driving her,..she'll settle in 40 or so miles.......one last bleed THEN... (my experience)

My caliper rebuild exhibited a delayed response in the pedal firming up (I do mean rock solid) ,..sure enough: it did, in due time.... Jdub is right,...and I , too, finish with a pedal pump!

At least, give it time,..however,...should the flex lines be of sufficient age,..it's time. Look for a date stamp....

BEST!

Doyle

Suggestion. Don't drive your car with suspect brake effectiveness. Make sure the brake pedal is firm before it rolls into the street.

From many, many threads on the subject, it seems pressurized bleeding equipment presents some issues in the course of forcing air bubbles out of the system. You should use the lowest pressure possible. I use atmospheric (0 psi) and allow air bubbles to escape via the reservoir and minimum fluid through a 2-3 foot nylon tube attached to an open bleeder screw and suspended vertically.

The archives have much info on this. Forcing quarts of new fluid through the system isn't efficient nor effective if the system still has air in it.

Sherwood

In the past, sometimes I have had to bleed the master cylinder. I have also had issued with tire pressure, old tires, and have heard that corner balance can effect brakes.

My standard for brakes is that no wheel locks up first under threshold braking. Even if the pedal feels different, if the brakes are properly bled, they should not pull or lock up prematurely.

+1 on replacing the flexible lines if you do not know how old they are. Swollen lines can cause sticking caliper issues. All the wheels should spin freely when jacked up. Apply the brakes hard with the wheels in the air, and give them all a test spin.

Any update on your quest?

I just asked my wife if she could participate in a forum question "
She did not find it comical. Stated " perhaps the red slut in the garage could
Help you and your stupid car gang answer the question.

Ohhhhh good times.

Going to replace the brake lines tonight and start all over again. They got better but still a little spongy and the lines are old anyway.

using the motive bleeder dry (no fluid in the bleeder) I only did 2 rounds when I replaced all my rubber brake lines. My car has 2 bleed nipples on the front calipers check if you have one on the inside and one on the outside. Are your bleed nipples up and not facing down?

x2 on that,you are forcing the air to the bleed points where you can get rid of it.

New rubber brake lines on now.... feeling better finally. :)

Kicking myself for not doing these when I did the new master cylinder, rebuilt calipers, new reservoir, and new pads. Bled a bunch tonight and first test drive felt good. Will drive a bunch more tomorrow and bleed again. Then I will give it a few more weeks of solid driving to let everything really break in and bleed one last time.

When I did mine ( Master Cylinder,Brake hoses,Rebuilt calipers and E Brake Shoes ) I had to bleed with the power bleeder and pump the brake peddle A hole lot to finally get a good peddle. Then go out and Bed the brakes in. After that they where fine. It took a while.

Just a quick reminder... make sure your calipers are installed right side up. If you removed them and accidentally install them upside down they won't bleed right. Don't ask how I know. ;-)

Another trick to release the last, few stubborn bubbles is to tap lightly on the caliper with a rubber mallet while you bleed. A friend had a very stubborn SC where the pedal just wouldn't firm up until we tried the tapping method. Surprising number of bubbles came out.

Yup, I plan to bleed a few more times after driving around to let things settle. Tapped on the calipers before and it does help.

I Just bled mine after replacing the hoses & I was surprised at the large size of the bubbles loosened up by tapping the caliper. I had a ton of trapped air in the front drivers side caliper.

Anyway, I think I have it good for now. I'll need to put some miles on it and bleed them one more time. I put on Earl's speed bleeders and it's an easy 1 man operation for bleeding. While I had the wheels off I took a chance to clean up the wheel wells and clean the backside of the wheels. I noticed one wheel missing weights, so I got that rebalanced.

You should get all the bubbles out after 3-4 bleeding series. Clean all your break fittings to make sure you have no leaks. Check around your master cylinder and the floorboard behind the peddles for fluid leaks.