72 T Engine Drop - Oil line Question
 

I'm dropping my engine to get at some rust problems on my stock 72 T. I basically have it out except for one oil line. I used a pipe wrench to loosen the large oil line collar (1 9/16 or 40mm?). The receiver that mates to the collar loosened instead. So, I removed the 3 screws holding the oil console and pulled it into the engine compartment for better access (pictured below).

What size is the inner nut. I measured it at 1 25.5/64 (~35.5 mm) but I can't be sure there wasn't a chunk of debris on the back side throwing me off. Is it a rusty 35mm or plain old 36mm? I have nothing that size so will have to buy something.

There doesn't appear to be enough room to get anything but a combo wrench on the smaller nut.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1355762588.jpg

If this thing won't budge, I read somewhere in my searches to address this that you can get replacement collars and not trash the whole line should I have to dremmel the collar off?

36 mm Pelican sells an oil line wrench which is thin.

Don't give up, soak it with oil, heat it, soak it again, heat it again, get or modify a wrench to fit the inner nut. I have the same set up and have been in your shoes. It will come off eventually, use copper paste on the threads when you re-assemble it so it does not sieze again.

W

I am amazed you could persuade the oil console to go through the mounting hole in the inner guard. If that inner oil fitting threaded nipple is turning reasonably easily in the oil console and not twisting up the oil line then I would back the whole lot out them mount the oil line in a vice and give it death with heat and a BF spanner. If it has to stay attached to the oil console I would be more judicious, those 72 oil filter consoles are a little rare. Better to sacrifice the oil line if you have to, I think a hydraulic shop could replace the flexible line back to the solid oil line that leads to the engine if you had to dremel the nut off. Its a crazy design, it naturally attracts corrosion being exposed to all the crud the tyre throws around. Good luck with that.

No, the console is still in the engine compartment, Porboy. That's about as much room as I can get because of the hard elbows. Fortunately, I can get at both nuts this way. While under the fender, I couldn't get at the 36mm inner...

I'll post the results. Thanks for the info and ideas!

You need to break the bond the rust has created somehow, heat will do it. Maybe a big set of vice grips might compress the fitting as you clamp it on and break that join, move it around each flat and squeeze it silly. Otherwise make up some temp heat shields and apply heat with a propane torch, MAP gas is better and hotter.

Harbor Freight has a nifty set of short (and thin) metric wrenches in the larger sizes. I've used mine many times and have been very pleased with them. I also have the full size set the Pelican sells. Use them when length not a factor.

You need oil line wrenches and a length of pipe for more leverage and soak them with Kroil.

Hi Tharbert looks like you have lots uf rust on those I soaked mine with
penatrating fliud and used a large" thin" faced adj wrench that fit snug
and was able to remove them.

Mike