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My first engine drop
I'm starting my first engine drop on my 86 Carrera. I'm a bit nervous but I think I will survive. I'm fixing a few oil leaks, clutch job and a clean up. Wish me luck guys, I think I'm going to need it.
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I am right on your heals Jink. I need a clutch and some rear struts. I also plan fix a couple of leaks too. I just finished helping a friend drop a 912 engine tonight and we had the clutch exposed shortly after the drop. I just had to see how involved the clutch was. Don't be nervous. Check out the while you're in there list too.....what a great site and such good help as well!
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The pelican article is quite helpful Pelican Technical Article: 911 Engine Removal Made Easy In fact, one the engine is out everything is very accessible and all right there. Once a person gets good at it you can have the engine and transmission on the floor in about an hour (or less for the quick guys). My very first time doing a drop on my 911 included clutch, ignition bits, tuneup, vacuum hoses, sensors, etc etc... I had it all back together in about a weekend (taking breaks of course, not all in one setting). |
Word of advise..........
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Charlie, Do not rush things and be safe. Take it slowly and would be prudent to have someone around when you drop the engine. I don't know what your set-up, hydraulic lift, floor jack, engine dolly, etc. Make a list of things that have to be done and review that list before doing the drop. I don't use a list anymore after more 20 years of doing this work but my first G-50/engine drop 2 months ago showed the need for it. I missed to disconnect/label two (2) vacuum lines from behind the engine. Take as many pictures you could get for reference. Use zip lock bags and label them accordingly. In case of doubt, stop what your are doing and ask. Keep us posted. Tony |
Thanks fellas, appreciate the vote of confidence. Definitely taking it slow, don't want f anything up, or myself up.
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Here's my checklist for my recent 1986 engine drop. I followed the Bentley manual with good success, except it is easier to disconnect the speedo sensor at the trans rather than in the tunnel and fish wires through.
I got the car up high and level, then dropped the nose once the engine was down to get the rear to lift. Even then I had to raise the rear another 2" to get the engine to clear as it was rolled out. It really wasn't that hard. Some photos in case that helps. Re and Re Engine and Transmission: Disconnect Battery Remove Bumper Drain Oil Disconnect – oil tank breather hoses (2), at tank vacuum line and breather hose from emission control valve, at tank air filter vent hose Disconnect – heater hoses coil wire mass air flow power wire engine harness connector near coil ground wires at #1 intake runner CHT sensor white speed sensor black reference sensor red O2 sensor Disconnect – fuel supply at top of filter 19mm fuel return at rear LS fuel rail 17mm power brake vacuum hose Disconnect – engine harness at LR shock tower ICV, throttle, idle, MAF connectors Disconnect – shift coupler Disconnect – accelerator pull rod ball joint on LS clutch cable from lever and transmission boss 15mm coil spring, circlip, small lever from shaft press clutch lever forward, remove from spring and shaft Disconnect – rubber S-hose hard oil line to oil tank Remove – sway bar 19mm + 12mm inner CV joints from transmission 8mm ground strap 13mm starter motor power lead 13mm speedometer sensor 10mm Support engine and transmission Remove – engine and transmission mount bolts 19mm Lower Away! Slowwwwly, down and back. Separate Engine and Transmission Disconnect – accelerator rod reverse light connections other starter connections Installation is the reverse http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1355892305.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1355892336.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1355892364.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1355892407.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1355892451.jpg |
Hey C A,
Call me if you need me! J |
MNez, Nice car and thanks for the list.
Jim brother man, will give you a call bro. |
MNez....Impressive and looks like a set up for a one man operation. Nice!
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Nice ride. These cars are really a pleasure to work on, as long as they have not been molested in the past; which does not seem to be the case with your car...
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Good set-up for engine drop.........
If there is one thing I would change in the set-up is use a taller and bigger jack stands. Those jackstands were over extended (last notch) other than that, I like it.
Tony |
Car dollies under the front wheels?
Really? |
That does actually look a little scary now that you mention it...
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Sorry guys, the front was stting on the ground for the drop, put the front dollies under prior to putting on the back wheels and lowering the rear onto dollies. Half way through it occured to me to take a picture. It's on dollies so I can move it back to its winter corner.
Stands were on the second last notch. It really was solid. And I had a second adult for the actual drop. |
my first time i got a cheap grease board and a fistfull of dry erase markers. every time i disconnected something, i jotted it down.
it did two things..the obvious was it helped me put it all back..the second; it slowed me down. which allowed me to think things thru. good luck. |
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My dollies are rated at over 2,000 pounds EACH so they are strong and safe. They do have a locking feature and depending on what I'm doing, I engage the lock. They never tip over and it makes it easy to move the car a few inches to re-position the jackstands at the rear. Makes it so easy a girl can do it. :D angela |
Finally, Engine down and out with the help of good ol' Jim Chang. Thanks brother, and thanks to
allhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1356478992.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1356479139.jpg |
Congratulation Charlie... Fix That For You :)
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