Garage lift - if you had to do it again

[ard]

tl;dr: I am looking for insights on "gotchas" from those who have installed a garage lift

I am spec'ing a new residential 2-car garage. It is an "ordinary" garage, used for parking daily drivers, not a dedicated workshop (the footprint dictates that). I am able to get an 11 foot ceiling. I service my cars periodically, usually for light maintenance (oil changes, brake pads, etc.). I may want to take on more ambitious car projects in the future (emphasis on "may"). I am leaning toward a QuickJack style lift stored in the garage when not in use. I do not plan to countersink it into a dedicated pit because we have seasons and I don't want snow melt from cars to get into the pit and corrode the lift; additionally I may want to hose the garage floor periodically and don't want to clean and dry the pit.

I hope fellow Pelicans can weigh in with thoughts on what they would do or do differently if they could do their lift install again.

Many thanks in advance.

[kevingross]

https://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/mid-rise-scissor-lifts/md-6xp/

[nickelplated5s]

There are a lot of threads here about such. Two things to think about; power and how thick the pad is and what metal is in it.

[EC900]

Always take time to plan for the future with new build, where stuff goes and where new stuff can be stored. Electrical plan for power and maybe a mini split one day.

I now have a small attached garage and none of the below luxuries, a bad back and inability to perform most arduous tasks of years gone by. But these were on a wish list item when home searching - space for cars with all doors opened.
Opted for nice house big lot small brick garage that
I reconfigured my tiny 1-car garage several times to accommodate growing needs. Overhead space is obstructed by low overhead door opener - that limits height with a QJack for me.

Tall overhead doors that will allow a pickup trunk I have - always a plus, not much $ if you have tall walls ceiling.
Plan on storage options too either on walls or floor and how the depth affects car door opening.
Floor roller jacking accessibility too, will handle get full reach.
Doing a new floor? Go thicker reinforced slab AND insulated vapor barrier, maybe get specs for a 2-post where to add more strength if there’s space and need for this sort.

There may come a time when lugging Quick Jack, around once or twice a month becomes a drudgery.
For that I’d only consider add a cutout recess - but plan on measurements for various or future car/truck/suv configurations… a good reason for no floor cut out and portability of moveable QJs.

Do use a box fan floor level year around and have some exhaust and ventilation.
Don't hose down a garage floor, especially one that doesn’t have a vapor barrier under the slab, you never want lingering or added moisture. Concrete is a sponge, draws up ground moisture and holds leaks and puddles.
A Floor fan is cheap to run 24/7 and will dissipate floor and undercarriage water.
If there’s a vapor barrier or sorts under the slab, maybe consider $$ epoxy coating. Even a painted floor will clean up well but has drawbacks like flaking from poor contact and moisture also hot tire separation, scratches, chips and eventually repainting.
My 2¢ - Good luck ! Post your progress and final build !

[nickelplated5s]

OP doesn't have enough height for a two post. That said if you're pouring a new floor all you need is 6" for the post pads and 3.5 elsewhere. I'd suggest 3,000 PSI or higher concrete too. Epoxy is great, wish I had done that for my shop.

[Showdown]

If you can’t go full two post lift then a max jack is the next best thing.


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[Danimal16]

I have a 12'-6" ceiling in mine, it is the best option going if you are building new.

Make sure adequate depth on the footprint, use a Suburban as a guide for depth, plus accommodations for cabinets.

Use side mount door openers.

With a high ceiling, install high lift doors. If not, the door will interfere with your lift. You do move some of the open/above door storage further back in the garage with consideration of the car on the lift.

Make provisions for thick lift foundations. Not just a pier type foundation, but rather a footing that is rectangular to allow for moving the columns for a two post. Four posts do not necessarily have to be anchored to the ground and can be moved with a caster kit, just like portable scissor lifts.

The layout of your electrical is very important. Dedicated circuits for the lift/lifts, various lift positions if using portable lifts and for door openers and lighting. Consider upsizing wire for 220 on lift; separate lighting and door power.

I am not a big fan of of scissors lifts, having had one. I would go with a two post with adapters to store cars. In a perfect world, I would go with both a four post for storage (if the ceiling is extra tall) and a two post for working on the car.

[targa72e]

Lots of ways to get higher ceiling. Garage door height and opener type are also important. If you can get more height I think a 4 post is the way to go. You can even get rollers so you can move them around if needed.

john

[PeteKz]

I've had both 2-post and 4-post lifts, currently a 4-post. While there are advantages to either type, I think the 2-post is more useful for working on cars. If you don't work on cars on your lift that much, but do use it for storing a car, then the 4-post probably is the better choice.

No best solutions, only tradeoffs.

[yelcab1]

My 4 post lift has been with me for a dozen years. I use it as a shop lift in the garage and there are some compromises but it has been good to me.

1. My old concrete floor will not support the weight and stress of the 2 post lift, that is out
2. The 2 post lift would eat up too much floor space to park a car next to the lift, that is out
3. The MaxJax requires storage room and that is very valuable in my garage, that is out.
4. So the appropriate 4-post lift turns my 2 car garage into a 3 car garage and leaves enough space to operate a shop. I have done everything known to mechanics on that lift.

The only time I needed a 2 post lift (which my friend has in his shop) was when I removed an entire engine drive train from a Ferrari Testarossa.

[nickelplated5s]

Originally Posted by targa72e

Lots of ways to get higher ceiling. Garage door height and opener type are also important. If you can get more height I think a 4 post is the way to go. You can even get rollers so you can move them around if needed.
john

That would involve a mechanical engineer if you need to reframe where trusses are removed.

[Cairo94507]

I had a BendPak scissor lift in my last garage and had no issues. We are just wrapping up a new construction garage, (44W X 36'D) and we went with a 12' 6" ceiling, 4300 PSI concrete 6" thick. We installed another BendPak scissor lift in this garage. We were realistic about capabilities at our age (my brother and I) and figured that would handle our needs. Takes cars up to about 46" and the two ramps are wide enough to roll under the entire car in the center as you can choose where to install the ramps. We checked measurements for all of our cars and selected a width that works for everything.

I know you don't want to recess your lift due to water concerns, but we did sink both of the scissor lifts and it really makes a difference. When they are down, they are flush with the floor and do not get in the way. If they have not poured your garage floor, just add a drain, install a 2" chase in the floor going to the back of the garage for the hydraulic lines and put the hydraulic components in a cabinet. Maximize your space and life will be easier. Good luck.

[porschedude996]

I have an in-ground flush floor lift. I put it in years ago and have no omni-present structures to deal with or move around. Two and four posts always in the way, single post (like an old service garage) have access areas that can inhibit certain types of work. Max Jax only lift so high. Surface mount scissor lifts are in the way of having an open floor.

I have found that with all the cars that I’ve had on my lift, I have always had access to different areas.

List of vehicle that have been on my lift. Always had access to what I wanted to do.
2001 Porsche 996TT
2007 Toyota Rav4
2018 F350
2014 F250
2022 F150
1955 Chevy Belair
2004 Ferrari 360
1983 Porsche 911SC
2018 Ford Explorer
1996 Chevy S10
1969 Chevy Z28 Camaro
1969 Chevy Corvette
1988 Toyota Pickup






I imported it myself under my SSN directly from the manufacturer in China

2010 Price was $1,600 plus $67 shipping (China to the Port of Los Angeles). Then $400-$500 to get through customs.There was a ridiculous list of charges including the “Un-Stuffing Fee” to pull the crates out of the container, then a fee to clean the container, then transport fee to customs warehouse, then cleaning fee to clean out the truck, then a storage fee for the time to clear customs, then a fee to transport domestic 180 miles up the coast. And a final Broker’s fee. Jeez, $67 to truck from factory to ship, stuff into container, prepare documents, and sail some 7800 miles to US port. $600 to get it 180 miles up the coast.

[RDM]

I've been through all this research and am now in the process of installing a flush-mount scissor lift. Ideal for a "regular garage" that is usually car storage because it is completely out of the way when not in use, and it is low enough (zero) that you can drive any car onto it without ramps. I found a used Rotary lift that only requires pits ~4½ inches deep and should last me the rest of my life.

[ard]

Thank you for the responses. They are very helpful and touch on areas I hadn't previously considered. The ceiling height is fixed unfortunately. I will specify a vapor barrier under the concrete slab.

Here is a drawing to illustrate what I am thinking. It doesn't show the chase for electrical / hydraulics.

[shinrai]

Single post lift for storage.
MaxJax two-post for service. These can be unbolted from the floor and tucked away in a corner.

[gorskined]

i have a Barret Jackson short sports car lift 8000lbs rated moveable 4 post lift . from 2020 the year they canceled the auction.
The lift maker ( think its Atlas ) sold them at a discounted price $1100 because BJ already paid a deposit to make them, then canceled the order.
In a nut shell i love it fits perfect in a standard garage i usually keep my 356 on top and my turbo under it if i need extra room ..Its easy to work on the cars . When pulling a motor for A quick valve adjustment, i just put a car on the lift.. put on the removeable casters ( 10 second job) and spin the entire lift 90 to give more space to remove the motor .. very versatile and no structural floor concerns

.

[gorskined]

or just leave the lift in place and use as a regular parking spot and as a bonus if you put a 2x4 under the rear cross bar of the lift . you can just get in the car release the brake push in the clutch. and roll out of the garage onto the driveway . and not wake up the house when starting a loud car

[gorskined]

Originally Posted by porschedude996

I have an in-ground flush floor lift. I put it in years ago and have no omni-present structures to deal with or move around. Two and four posts always in the way, single post (like an old service garage) have access areas that can inhibit certain types of work. Max Jax only lift so high. Surface mount scissor lifts are in the way of having an open floor.

I have found that with all the cars that I’ve had on my lift, I have always had access to different areas.

List of vehicle that have been on my lift. Always had access to what I wanted to do.
2001 Porsche 996TT
2007 Toyota Rav4
2018 F350
2014 F250
2022 F150
1955 Chevy Belair
2004 Ferrari 360
1983 Porsche 911SC
2018 Ford Explorer
1996 Chevy S10
1969 Chevy Z28 Camaro
1969 Chevy Corvette
1988 Toyota Pickup






I imported it myself under my SSN directly from the manufacturer in China

2010 Price was $1,600 plus $67 shipping (China to the Port of Los Angeles). Then $400-$500 to get through customs.There was a ridiculous list of charges including the “Un-Stuffing Fee” to pull the crates out of the container, then a fee to clean the container, then transport fee to customs warehouse, then cleaning fee to clean out the truck, then a storage fee for the time to clear customs, then a fee to transport domestic 180 miles up the coast. And a final Broker’s fee. Jeez, $67 to truck from factory to ship, stuff into container, prepare documents, and sail some 7800 miles to US port. $600 to get it 180 miles up the coast.

i love that engine cart is the angle adjustable ?

[porschedude996]

Originally Posted by gorskined

i love that engine cart is the angle adjustable ?

The cart is a larger Harbor Freight model. What worked for me was to place shims between the engine and the cart surface in multiple places. Once I liked the effort of shimming, I lowered the cart surface with the shims and taped them in place. The engine/transmission split-line was at the front edge of the cart surface. The ratchet straps are more to appease the mind. The balance seemed to be fine.

Ok, too long winded. So to answer your question, no adjustment provisions on the cart.