Binding Shift Coupler
 

I was replacing all of the shift linkage bushings when I ran across an interesting problem. All of the bushings appeared fine visually but they had certainly been there a while so I decided to replace them.

In particular the coupler bushings seemed to be causing the coupler to bind. Even manipulating the coupler manually was difficult and it would stick in various rotations. The best way to convey this is this video:

Stiff Coupler - YouTube

Removing the pin offered a bit of resistance and when it was out I noticed two identical scars/scratches on the pin.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1358662924.jpg

I test fit the pin back into the central metal portion of the coupler (with the splines) and it binds about this point:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1358663027.jpg

In the process though I did find a nice gentle way to remove the coupler bushings. Using a bolt and nut it was pretty easy to draw the bushings out without prying etc. near the somewhat delicate cast coupler.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1358663073.jpg

It seems that our host does not sell the coupler pins alone. Any suggestions for a replacement or repair appreciated. Perhaps I'll just need a whole new coupler...

I would think the pin is just cold rolled steel.
If you measure the diameter of the pin and the hole it fits in to...you will come up with a metric value.
Go to your favorite metal supplier...or harware store (Lowes?) and check for a piece.
Bob

Contact the Coupler Whisperer, he may be able to help

ummm...the reason the pin "binds" is that is how it stays in place - the factory deforms the center making it larger and thus a friction press fit is achieved

those bushings are causing the couple to bind because they are too wide and the holes are poorly made

I can help you if you would like to email me

ivangene@msn.com

Thanks Ed. Since you've seen the inside of one or two of these things I really appreciate your answering such a basic question. Makes perfect sense. The unrelated binding caused by the bushings was unreal compared to the free rotational play in your demonstration of a whispered coupler in your YouTube video.

Thanks again

I got tired of fighting with these things years ago. While I have not tried one of Ed's "massaged" couplers, the replacement units offered by Wevo or Stromski work very well and are trouble free. They are a high quality universal joint used in aircraft control linkages.

The improved billet clamp replacing the factory pot metal one is a nice upgrade too.

Just my $0.02

http://petry.org/pics/newwevo.jpg

I installed Wevo year ago an have never had to touch it. VERY GOOD product.

Wevo makes a great product....but not everyone wants to (or has) $200 for one

I installed mine 3 years ago and have not touched it :D

for about 18% of the cost of one of those ;)

good luck with your project, the rewards are worth the effort

I installed one of Ed's last year on my car and have had no issue .. about 4500 miles .. also installed one on another Pelicans car and he has had no issue ...

Ed's coupler rebuild is the way to go (unless you really need to spend 200 bucks) .. the main thing you need to do is adjust it correctly .. the Bently has detailed instructions on the method .. I have a post on the procedure here as does Ed .. you may not get it "right" the first time as it is more of a feel thing .. took me twice on mine to get it correct and three times on Tim's car .....

Contact Ed and he will walk you thru or if he is busy feel free to bounce me a PM and I can walk you thru if you have an issue or cant find the info here ....

Steve .....SmileWavy

Ed's exchanged couplers....swap him for a rebuilt one. He is very reasonable and you get a true upgrade.