The trouble with DIY projects.... the CV nightmare
 

I have concluded that I need to replace the axle, not just the cv boots. Perhaps it is my fault, and I put the joint back togther incorrectly, or maybe it needed to be replaced all along- I don't know. What I do know is that in order to save the $495 that the shop wanted to replace all 4 boots I have now spent $421.00 in parts and tools ($200 of which is a 200-600lb torque wrench (used) needed to torque down the axle nut to the right specs, and another $175 on sockets, punch, vice, hammer, etc that I will have after the project is complete) and have been without my car for 2 weeks. Done... no, of course not! I took apart the cv 4 times without success (just would not move when back togther) struggled with the inside boot b/c it turned in on itself and had to be taken apart to "flip" it back out, made a complete mess of my new garage, went through a bag of shop towels, a can of brake cleaner, and many many laytex gloves. Now I need to order the new axle ($229- $315 depending on the source) and might (what do you guys think?) want to replace both. Another week waiting for the parts and without my car.<p>
So to save $495, I have now spent $650.85 and been without my car, plus the many hours (greasy hours) working on this repair. Is it worth it?

Sean - I feel for you ... just keeping thinking about how great it will feel when you drop the top and hit the road again!

Sean, you have hit on the age old excuse to BUY TOOOOLS! This is exactly how I manage to buy most of my tools.... " Honey, I can spend $350.00 to have the shop do the Quantums timing belt and water pump or.... I can spend that money, buy the compressor and impact wrench and parts and still have the tools when its done!" I also look at it as building the knowledge base... the only way to learn things is to do them yourself and become competent in your own right. Sure there are occasionally costly mistakes, but you can learn from them and what is the cost of the knowledge? (hint: the cost of knowledge is cost of repair minus what you would have paid some shop to do it!:) If the cost of the repair is less than what the shop would have charged you're making headway!) I have a nice shiny new engine hoist in my garage now because I put an engine in my wifes Rodeo for far less than what the shop would have charged me. As exasperating as it may seem at the time... you will feel better knowing that you did it yourself and each time you do that task it gets easier! Good luck, and chill, Brian

LOL.... quite right!

But this secret is just between us....right! :eek: :eek:

Sounds like you just put the joint back together wrong (happens to everyone), just take it apart, flip the inner cage 180 degrees (or in to out, however it should be said) and reinstall the balls.

Good luck,

Jerry M
'78 SC

Take it apart again... NAAAA. Just buying a new Lobro(?) axle assmebly. $229 and I have new cv joints, a new axle, no more mess and peace of mind. Qeustion is should I do both axles, or is it ok just to do one, and wait till a boot goes on the other side to replace it?

Yes, you can just do one side. Sorry for your troubles, but I think you could still reassemble the joints, grease them up, install new boots and be fine.

So basically you broke even. You learned some and got some more tools and get to put another axle in. Just imagine how fast you will be replacing the next one...

I know it is frustrating when a job takes that long and you end up having to re-do it. On the other hand, do a search for bb80sc and his DIY problem. Puts it all into perspective, right ? (He ended up needing a new engine after a fairly minor job)

hassle
 

send me all the used parts when your done replacing the axles!!!!

Right there with ya, brother. Replacing the boots on my 88 was an absolute PITA MESS. Ended up doing one in my garage and one in my girlfriends garage. I really think I should have just replaced them but too late now. They did seem very smooth and run very quietly so I guess it was the smart thing to do.
Later

Of course you can just "do" one side. You do realize that installing that new axle (with joints) is "almost" as much work as just "correcting" the one you have. This is probably also a good time to suggest that maintenance of these joints is required. Suggested intervals vary, but every 60,000 to 80,00 miles they should be removed, cleaned, re-lubed and reinstalled with new boots. Providing you don't get an unnoticed, torn boot, proper maintenance will allow greatly increased lifespan. I've never seen a "worn-out" CV joint, every one I've replaced has been due to continued use with a torn boot or complete lack of maintenance (until I got it - grin).

Cordially,

Jerry M
'78 SC

By the way, the next time you need to torque an Axle nut and do not have a 200-600 torque wrench, this is what you do.

1. Get a 3-foot long extension pipe to go over your 3/4 inch breaker bar or ratchet.

2. Stand on a bathroom scale and push down on the 3 foot long extension.

3. If you need 300 ft-lbs of torque, push until the bathroom scale reads 100 lbs less than your original weght. You now have put 300 ft-lbs of torque on that wrench.

Save yourself the $200 torque wrench that you can use just once in your life.

There are a few repro axles being sold by 'discounters.' Make sure that you get one that is Genuine OEM (like the ones that we sell).

Some projects are not fun, and are often best left to other people, if you don't have the patience. I'm not a huge fan of changing oil, however, I don't trust anyone else. Alignments are another one that you cannot do without special tools. A/C systems need outside help as well...

-Wayne

There ARE foolproof ways of getting the CV's apart and back together in one try per CV-joint! One way is to have an old air-cooled VW repair manual from John Muir or Bentley ... and read and understand the entire procedure before you start!

Another way would have been to search Pelican with the search string 'cv disassembly' ... and you would have fould the following thread with posted scans of the relevant Bentley pages from 1974!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=62514&highlight=cv+disa ssembly

http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate...leyT3CV-1s.jpg

http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate...leyT3CV-2s.jpg

http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate...leyT3CV-3s.jpg

http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate...leyT3CV-4s.jpg

CV joints...
 

Over ten years ago (but only 5,000 miles ago on our Carrera odometer) we (the wife and I) took the CV joints apart to regrease and we didn't even need new boots at the time. We just wanted to regrease them. We had them all apart and got all greasy and repacked them w/ grease, put it all back together and installed them back in the car and had no problem. Must have been dumb luck, cuz nothing went wrong... we didn't even look anything up first...we just jumped in and did it. It was our first CV joint repack. Since then we've have had no problems w/ the CV joints.

On all our other cars however...Honda civics...I (by myself this time w/o the wife's help) tried to dismantle the Honda's CV joints to replace torn boots and could not for the life of me get the CV joints apart w/o destroying them! I found good replacement axel shaft units w/ rebuilt joints and new boots for as low as $38 and it aint worth messing w/ replacing Honda boots!

My original 1977 Porsche CV joint boots are still intact and look good. I am dreading the day I need to replace the boots when the rubber cracks and splits open. I'll replace them before they open up so as not to allow road debris to grind itself into the joint...I hope.

I'll find out if I can do it again or if it was some higher state I was in at the time or was it the wife's talent?

JGL & PKF

;)

nah, regroup and 'ave another go!:D

and you've now got $375 worth of tools for next project;)

good luck

Sorry, but I must say this. Look how absruse paragraph 2 in Jim's illustration from the Porsche Manuel is in relation to the illustration. If anyone can figure this out on the first or second reading I'd me surprised.
SmileWavy

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1499043161.jpg


Note the relationship of the inner ring to the outer ring.

It will be stiff or not even move if they are thick to thick.

Hope this helps.

I hope he figured it out in the 15 years since the problem came up!! Almost to the day :)