Weber adjustment, how to remove stuck plugs?
 

Weber gurus

Setting the float bowls on my 40 IDAs. I need to raise the level a bit and set about to remove the needle valve plugs.

Since I have scant directions and no pictures to look at, I've concluded the needle valves sit under the large hex head plugs on top of the carbs where the fuel lines come in. This seems to be the only place the adjustment washers can fit.

Problem is these hex head plugs are brass and really tight = they are rounding off before loosening.

How do I get these puppies loose before I totally round the heads?

They are soaking in liquid wrench now. Obviously I am not going to heat them up ;)

You could just bend the levers on the floats to adjust the float level. This way you won't ruin anything. Higher the lever on the float, lower the gas level


Did you do the float level gauge yourself? Could u post pictures of it and whats the millimeter amount and from where :)

a common problem, requiring more effort than you thought occasionally. 1st, get your 16mm socket and grind down the leading edge to get rid of the bevel, so you can contact the full surfaces of the hex head on the plug. firm pressure without jerking is your only hope. if it still strips, it's chisel time. you have to get a bite in the brass ring, around the hex, with a small flat tipped chisel and see if you can rotate it without going thru into the carb body. the hex cap can actually be chiseled off because it's hollow, to give you more working room. if it still doesn't budge, a few notchs can be cut with a piece of hacksaw blade thru the brass, but not thru the aluminum sealing ring below it. then the chisel can be applied again. the notching tends to relax the grip of the plug, and they usually turn after you do that. JUST BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE CARB BODY UNDER THE PLUG! if you do, a machine shop can spot face them, so all is not lost.

Thanks John,

I'll try grinding the socket. The plugs are so short there is little contact now.

Planning ahead - When that fails and I need to chisel, where do I get the replacement plugs?

PMO

Chuck,

Grinding a special socket 'square' at the end is always a good idea for shallow pugs or jam nuts ...

Before attacking the removal, though, try putting a few ounces of ordinary cooking vinegar in the bowls and let it sit for an hour ... the 2% strength stuff won't hurt the pot metal, and will probably loosen the corrosion to make the job a lot easier to remove the plugs.

I am sure John knows a lot, but if you can't get those open..don't use force. I think that the lever bending is even mentioned in some repair manuals. It is as efficient as the shims under the needle valve

As I said..at least it won't break anything..and you don't have to buy new needle valve caps.

Walker gets the prize.

I had to resort to the chisel, but they came off pretty quick. And the heads are still on so I can at least use them till my new ones get here from PMO.

Mikko, although I am sure that could work I don't want to bend the floats. My fingers aren't calibrated and I think it would be a long process of trial and error to get it right.

Thanks to all.

its wierd how brass siezes up in the carb body..... everytime I rebuild my webers ( once a year)...... I put a bit of anti sieze on the fittings before I reinstall them

Chuck, Before you put a chisel to that screw.. can you tell me what the clearance is around the socket when its installed on the screw? I don't know squat about Webbers but I know how to remove hardware thats either seized or hard to get too.
I think I have a good Idea that won't ruin that screw.

You Have my Work number if you can give me a call.

Jorge (Targa Dude):cool:

One reason those plugs can be hard to get off is that generally, after removal and reinstallation, they tend to leak fuel. This leads to excessive tightening in an attempt to stop the leaks. Excessive tightening means that you are going to have a problem removing the plugs the next time you want to set up the float levels.

I have found that after maybe 5-10 heating/cooling cycles, the fiber washers under the plugs swell up sufficiently to stop fuel leaks. On really stubborn leaks, I have had some success using 2 fiber washers under the plug. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.

It appears to me that leaks from these plugs are caused by poor machining of the plugs. The shoulder around the plug head is not parallel to the sealing surface on the carb body. This observation also applies to the fuel inlet banjo bolts. Next time the banjos come off my Webers, I am going to try the PMO fuel inlet bar with attached fuel filters.

Good luck.