Grounding point near battery

[kohho]

I'm not sure what to do about this one. When I try to remove the nut on the main grounding point on the car near the battery, the grounding stud spins along with the nut. I can't remove the nut and I suspect that the ground to the chassis can't be that good at this location.

Any thoughts on how to fix this? - Thanks!

[javadog]

You can try to get something on the backside and hold it. Not easy to do...

JR

[kohho]

Originally Posted by javadog

You can try to get something on the backside and hold it. Not easy to do...

JR

Yes - that was my initial thought. There seems to be no easy way to get at the back of it though. Does the left fender have to be removed?

[wwest]

While holding the nut stationary drill/tap a hole, largest you think is feasible, down the center of the stud, screw a bolt into the new tapped hole and.....

[javadog]

Originally Posted by kohho

Yes - that was my initial thought. There seems to be no easy way to get at the back of it though. Does the left fender have to be removed?

You might be able to reach up through the bumper mount reinforcement, with some sort of long-nosed vice grip or needlenose pliers. Taking the fender off is not real easy but it does expose the stud very well. That would be my last resort.

JR

[kohho]

Originally Posted by javadog

You might be able to reach up through the bumper mount reinforcement, with some sort of long-nosed vice grip or needlenose pliers. Taking the fender off is not real easy but it does expose the stud very well. That would be my last resort.

JR

So what's on the other side? Is this a bolt or is it a stud that's welded to the chassis?

Thanks,
kohho

[sailchef]

It may be possible to use a dremmel and cut a slot across both the nut and stud. Then use a small headed screwdriver in the notched stud while you put a box wrench on the nut. Lots of PB blaster. Relocate ground strap

[javadog]

I can't say with certainty what an '84 had but it may look like this:

[redstrosekNic]

Originally Posted by sailchef

It may be possible to use a dremmel and cut a slot across both the nut and stud. Then use a small headed screwdriver in the notched stud while you put a box wrench on the nut. Lots of PB blaster. Relocate ground strap

This.

[Nickshu]

The stud is welded on the backside. Its not a bolt. Mine broke the weld too. I cut a slot in the end of the stud for a screwdriver blade to hold it in place while I loosened the nut with an open end wrench. I was able to wedge the backside with a prybar, you can get to it from the bottom, its behind the bumper shock support

[kohho]

Originally Posted by Nickshu

The stud is welded on the backside. Its not a bolt. Mine broke the weld too. I cut a slot in the end of the stud for a screwdriver blade to hold it in place while I loosened the nut with an open end wrench. I was able to wedge the backside with a prybar, you can get to it from the bottom, its behind the bumper shock support

Thanks everyone for the photos and feedback. I'll play around with this on the weekend.

[javadog]

A couple ideas for you. You can drill a hole in the center of the stud and drive a suitably-sized torx driver in the end. This would allow you to hold the stud while loosening the nut. After you clean up the grounds, you should be able to tighten the nut back on, as any rotation of the stud will just drive it into the bumper mount brace and it should stop rotating.

JR

[wwest]

Personally I'd use a longer stud, long enough to "double-nut" it. After, of course, spotfacing the surface immediately surrounding the stud.

[manbridge 74]

Take it to a good welder after you get the nut off. Perhaps he can weld stud in situ and you can clean it up with a dremel and re-attach cable.