What's difficult about removing CIS with engine in car?
 

I'm doing major tuneup and vacuum leak repairs. In the process, I've replaced all CIS fuel lines and currently have fuel lines removed as well as fuel distributor and airflow sensor.

I have a '74 so no heater blower to deal with. With the airflow sensor removed, it looks to me like there is plenty of room to unbolt and lift off the CIS complete. Am I missing something?

Also, besides fuel lines and throttle linkage (rod that snaps on/off), is there anything hidden that I need to undoe before unbolting and removing?

I feel like it would be much easier to replace o-ring under throttle body with the CIS out and I could also replace the gaskets on the top of the engine and minimize oil leaks. In addition, I could guarantee a clean work space if I could pull off and move to a table.

All advice welcome as this is my first attempt.

Vern

The #6 intake runner back bolt is a pain. Then you need to lift it up while getting your hands underneath to loosen the breather hose. Takes some acrobatics.

What's difficult about removing CIS with engine in car?

The obvious limiting space of the engine compartment is normally a disadvantage to removing or servicing the CIS, as compared to working on the engine on a bench, floor or work-stand.

I removed everything as a unit (including intake runners) fairly easily by doing a partial engine drop.

Partial engine drop makes it easy.

When you say partial engine drop - does that mean just loosening the engine mounts and slowly lowering (i.e., not disconnecting any harness or other items that have some room to move).

Also, about what distance are we talking?

one thing, I've already removed the airflow sensor with fuel distributor and that (with the boot) freed up about 4-6 inches of space.

Vern

sounds like you are on your way to advising others. let us know how it goes.

The fear of something falling down one of the ports while you are lifting that behemoth off the top of the motor.

Fastfred....that is even an issue when it is on the stand. I learned the hard way. Take inventory on every nut and washer!

With the rubber boots connecting the runners to the intake, you can pull each runner off the head studs and jam a shop rag into each port hole before lifting the entire unit.

Disconnect the battery and shift coupler place a jack with a 2x6 on it under the engine loosen the mount bar bolts and lower the engine and trans together.

I've done it 3 times with a partial drop. My advice is to wear a long sleeve shirt and good gloves. ( Reduces blood letting) Have the car raised as high as you can to save your back. Have plenty of swivel adapters in 1/4 and 3/8 for your sockets. Have good extendable magnet positioned beside every nut and washer you remove.
Don't forget the nut holding the back of the airbox to the throttle plate.

Rear sway bar........
 

The rear sway bar has to be removed too. Otherwise, your transmission side would be limited to move down. I don't know your set-up. Are you using a lift or jack stands? In any case, support the engine with a solid or strong support like jackstand or wooden blocks. I try not to depend on hydraulic floor jack for this kind of work.

Tony

some parts you may want to get.
 

Get new gaskets and seals for:
the intake runners. 91111019201
the throttle body oring: 99970112440
air box seal: 91111039402
injector sleeve:91111088603
one of my rubber mounting connetions was bad: 91111015400

these numbers are for a 1975 so verify for your car.

Did you learn the real hard way? as in lunch a motor? I have never done this to a p car, but I did unknowingly drop a 6 mm nut down the intake of a ford 5.4, and kaploweee! I had to buy the customer a motor. That one stung a little. Sorry to hi jack, carry on gentlemen.

intruders
 

No..I found the engine locking up during valve job on an engine stand. Gravity eventually gave it up, but I had to remove the exhaust to find the smoking gun.

Will Hung has the right approach...cover those holes up right away!

So Tidybuoy, did you finally did it ?
Dropping the engine or not ?

I'm removing CIS for leak fixing in the next few weeks so any advice is good...