front strut assembly question
 

im in the process of doing my front suspension. replacing wheel bearings busshings. the cars a 73 911e. not sure what shocks are up front. i assume there boges.i cant seem to get the assembly off from the ball joint. theres a bolt and a threadedin on the bottom. i got the nut off. how do i get the pin out? i tried hammering it out, but dont want to mess up the threaded pin.

You should replace rather than reuse that pin. Go ahead and drive it out with a punch.

MAP gas and a BFH and a drift or punch. Turn the nut over and thread it near flush to keep on center. Might take a good wacking. Mine did and yours is 9 years older than mine.

The pin and nut must be replaced every time.

ok thanks for the replies. i thought i could just punch it out, but wasnt sure if it was threaded in from the other side. i will give it a few wacks today.

is this the part number for the pin i need 911-341-119-06? also another while im in there question. how can i tell if the ball joint is bad? should i go ahead and replace it? car is 40 years old. not sure if it was ever replaced.

With the ball joint installed, it should show no movement when a pry bar is used to push the tire up and down or the a arm up and down. It's old, replace it! I just replaced mine on my 66 and drilled them for grease fittings. They will outlast me now.

Yes replace both ball joints for sure. My 82 (with only 76K miles) were trashed on both sides, one side was so loose I could not believe it had not popped apart yet. You need the special tool for the ball joint nut to change them out, and assorted other hardware. It's much easier to do if you have an impact wrench but even then it can be tough to get the big ball joint nut off the bottom. Regardless you should do it for sure.

And....while you are in there :D ....if it's all 40 years old you should consider:

-Replacing all front suspension bushings
-New tie rods (turbo tie rods if you don't already have them)
-R&R the steering rack for a regrease/rebuild with new bearings
-New strut top mounts and struts (if you are not already doing that)

None of these are particularly difficult jobs, just time consuming and sometimes frustrating when bolts are siezed (40 years of corrosion). :mad:

Ball joint nut
 

I tried a floor jack under the breaker bar and socket, with a cheater. The nut wouldn't budge and the socket wanted to slip out.

I tried the chisel/punch and only beat up the nut.

Finallly just drilled out the nut, axially and it popped loose with a small hammer and punch.

Many threads on this one. Save the socket for final tightening, once the arm and strut are back on the car.

Good luck,
chris

When you replace the pin, Never-Seize the heck out of the new one before tapping it in. I also Never-Seize the wedge hole the tie rod end gets jammed into and the threads on the ball joint castle nut in case I (or anyone else) ever need to go back..

i got the threade bolt out on the passenger side. only took a few good wacks. now my question is. why isnt the strut assembly coming off. it seems like it wont break away from the balljoint. i dont think i need to take the ball joint nut off?

Most likely just stuck, shoot some Kroil into the hole and try prying it away from the ball joint. If you are replacing the joint take it off as a unit so its easier to deal with..

im probably going to replace the ball joints too.

Turn the nut over and thread it near flush to keep on center.http://www.datingsenior.info/h.jpg

just did this on a 72
 

the pin:
put the nut on the end of it.
I used a brass sledge but a regular sledge will work.
Hit the nut as hard as you can a few times.
It will come loose.
Ball joints:
I uses 2 forked ball joint tools.
You will not be able to get the tools between the ball joint and strut unless you compress the strut.
I used a small shipping hold down rachet strap, wrapped it around the shock in a manner that it could not strip and with the rachet i was able to compress the strut which pulled the a arm to a position in which i could put the ball joint tools in between.
again with a big hammer drive the ball joint tool in and voila, they separate.
Get new ball joints, pins and nuts.
I bought porsche pins as i read some articles here about the oem ones being too long..such a critical component i did not want to take any chances.
Get new wheel bearings (use an oven to heat the hubs to 250f
get new hub bearing seals.
get new sealing rings that go behind the inner race.

tool i used
 

the ball joint tool i used and the strap tool harbor frieght
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1361766609.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1361766621.jpg