Motormeister 2.7 rebuild

[ferrari2porsche]

Anyone out there familiar with Motor Meister in S. Ca.? I'm looking to have my 2.7 reuilt by them rather than replacing with a 3.0. Are these guys good?

[TimT]

Oh boy.... search the archive here and on rennlist

[emcon5]

Click me and type Motermeister.

Links to threads about the "M" word submitted without comment:
Link One

Link Two

Tom

[ferrari2porsche]

OK, so maybe I won't go with motor meister. would just going to a 3.0 be a better option? or is there a better shop out there?

[cegerer]

"OK, so maybe I won't go with motor meister. "

Darn! This had the potential for a 4 or 5 page thread! -- Curt

[janus911]

Thank God you came to your senses ferrari2porsche.


They will take you to the B A N K

mass rebuilder ---> quality is better than quantity.

[JSDSKI]

Shame on you Curt, bandwidth doesn't grow on trees!

Buy Bruce Anderson's book so you'll know what is involved in a quality, long-lived, rebuild. Keep asking the "senior members"
eventually, you'll find a shop....

[Joeaksa]

Find a good 3 or 3.2 motor, plug it in and hit the go pedal. Buying quality in the first place will always pay you back in the end.

joe

[Superman]

I did a lowest-possible-cost rebuild, without using new P&Cs, on my 3-liter and I could probably have installed a 3.6 or at least a 3.2 for the same net dollars, and gotten more horsepower. And 2.7s are substantially more expensive to rebuild.

In other words, I am suggesting you consider a transplant. There is always a fresh supply of big engines from newer cars because "some folks can't handle the responsibility of 260 horsepower."

[ferrari2porsche]

Thank GOD and Wayne for this website.


I could have made a very $$$$ mistake. By reading past articles, I got the name of Black forest. Are these guys recomended and are their any other engine builders around?

[ferrari2porsche]

Roy with MM told me that I can only install a 1978 and 1979 3.0 to replace the 2.7. Is this true? or is he just giving me lip service?
If I do go with an 80 or newer 3.0, what's invloved?

[makaio]

I think Black forest is who Kurt Starnes used after MM gave him a bum deal.

I have only heard good about Black Forest.

But I would go the 3.0 or larger route. More HP=

[Wayne 962]

That statement (if you heard him correctly) is completely false. There are really no limitations on any engine you can put into your 911.

Bruce's book is the best thing out there (so far), but it doesn't tell you much about getting a good rebuild. Mine will, however...

As for transplants, it's not always black and white. You must make sure that the engine that you're buying is a really good one, and doesn't need rebuilding. If it does in the near future, then you're out more than twice as much as you would have originally spent on rebuilding your 2.7.

Average cost for a 2.7L $8000 or so. Average cost for a low-mileage 3.2 $8000 or so. The 2.7L will be fresher, and will be good for another 100,000 miles or so. The 3.2 (and hte 3.0 and the 3.6) have their own problems (head studs & rod bolts) that may require them to be rebuilt. That would add another $8K to the price tag.

With the rebuilt 2.7, you will know that you will have a strong running engine for many, many years. I'm not recommending one way or another, but there are indeed two sides to every coin.

-Wayne

[Early_S_Man]

The '80 or later SC engines are a more complicated installation because of the OXS system wiring and components, and I would tend to recommend against using a later engine, too, but it is feasible, and can be done if you be sure to get all of the necessary parts and wiring harness from the dismantler. It would be best to get the complete fuse/relay/CDI mounting plate and wiring from the donor car, too. The CDI-unit for the SC engine is different from your 3-pin unit, and the correct unit (or Perma-Tune equivalent) must be used with the output from the SC magnetic-trigger distributor. Generally, an SC tachometer is required, too, because the pre-SC tachs are not usually sensitive enough to reliably trigger on the lower-level signal from the SC CDI-unit.

[ferrari2porsche]

what have I gotten myself into

[1980SC]

As Warren pointed out, the comment about '80 and up engines is the O2 sensor stuff. The fuel distributor of the USA '80-'83 have a frequency valve which needs a control box and relay to operate it. The euro '78-'83 or the USA '78-'79 3.0 engines would be much less hassle.

-Rob
1980SC euro (no O2 crap)

[hbrand]

Rules for finding and dealing with repairshops:

Know what you want,
Know how much it may cost,
Know how long it may take,
Be honest about the condition of your engine,
Find an engineer who owns his own business -Inc.
Does the work himself,
Is in the same location and in the same business for a long time,
Who is honest and gives you a detailed accounting,
Delivers on time and on the money,
Loves what he is doing.
Does not give up,
Does not take a big downpayment to start work,
Gives you pictures of the work done,
Keeps the old parts for your inspection,
Does not overcharge for parts and will work with your parts,
Who will testdrive your car for at least 250 miles for the fun,
Check out the shop,
Trust your first instinct,

I could go on.

Thanks, Harold, Yes this is my resume'

[Joeaksa]

There have been several people on this forum who are pulling a good 3 liter motor out of their car to transplant a 3.6 or turbo motor.

Why not try to find one of these and put it in your car? You can get the various bits working together, its not that hard and been done by hundreds of people before.

Joe

[ferrari2porsche]

anyone have a 78 or 79 3.0 for sale?

[nostatic]

If you're in Irvine, you might want to talk to Andial or Hergesheimer. Both could steer you in the right direction for either a rebuild or transplant.