Help with SC ignition switch replacement

[armand80sc]

The ignition switch in my 1980SC has gone and needs replacement.
The current part number is 911.613.101.06. I have been told this part is no longer available.

Checking our hosts inventory the only replacement ignition switch is
964.347.917.01
(Listed for 1974-1989)

Pelican Parts - Product Information: 964-347-917-01-M100


I was going to purchase this but was told by someone locally that it is only for cars 1984 and up and would not be the correct replacement for the 1980SC ignition switch??

Can any SC owners who have replaced their ignition switch mechanism please shed some light on this.

[spuggy]

Originally Posted by armand80sc

The ignition switch in my 1980SC has gone and needs replacement.
The current part number is 911.613.101.06. I have been told this part is no longer available.

Checking our hosts inventory the only replacement ignition switch is
964.347.917.01
(Listed for 1974-1989)

Pelican Parts - Product Information: 964-347-917-01-M100


I was going to purchase this but was told by someone locally that it is only for cars 1984 and up and would not be the correct replacement for the 1980SC ignition switch??

Can any SC owners who have replaced their ignition switch mechanism please shed some light on this.

The terminals are the same, IMO. I've put the ignition portion of both an earlier ignition switch (chrome lock surround) and a later (from an '86 930) in my '77 at various times.

I prefer the earlier-style switch because the later part has an internal interlock so you can only turn to "Start" once after turning it on - to turn it to "Start" again, you need to turn it all the way back to "Off" and then you can go back to "Start".

Early switches used to be twice the price of the 964 part # - and then they went NLA.

One guy reported that his SC ignition LOCK had an interlock - neither my '77 nor my early one do.

If the lock and the switch both had an interlock, that might not work too well.

Get either a flexible screwdriver, or a small ratchet bit drier (the 90 degree type). You CAN get the screws out of the back of the switch without needing to drill out the shear bolts. It is cramped, almost entirely by feel and really isn't a great deal of fun - oddly, I'm about to go do that right now (to swap an earlier switch back in)...

[tirwin]

I replaced my ignition switch about 18 months ago in my '83 SC. I'm away from home or I would go look at the paperwork and confirm the part number, but the picture listed by our host looks correct.

And when you get it, I would suggest getting in touch with Tony "the Porsche key guy" Euganeo and let him re-key the ignition key to your door key. It's a lot cheaper to get one cylinder re-keyed than than the rest of them. Unless you're ok with having 2 separate keys of course.

Search for Tony on here and you'll get his contact info. If you can't find it for some reason, PM me and I'll look it up when I get home.

[group911@aol.co]

I have some nice used assemblies if you want to go that route. Email if interested.

[tirwin]

Forgot to ask, is it just the electrical portion of the switch or is the cylinder bad. You can just replace the electrical switch if that's all that's wrong. If the cylinder is bad, talk to Tony first before you drop a lot of coin on a new one.

[nicfranc]

Originally Posted by tirwin

Forgot to ask, is it just the electrical portion of the switch or is the cylinder bad. You can just replace the electrical switch if that's all that's wrong. If the cylinder is bad, talk to Tony first before you drop a lot of coin on a new one.

Can you replace just the tumbler ?
My key gets hung up and I have to move it around to get it to turn.

[spuggy]

Originally Posted by nicfranc

Can you replace just the tumbler ?
My key gets hung up and I have to move it around to get it to turn.

Sticky pin. Hit it with silicon lube for 30 seconds right in the key hole. Wipe off all the gummed up junk that comes out. Then hit it again. And again. Really, don't spare the silicon.

Work the key in and out in between to move all the pins around until they slide freely. Repeat every couple of years.

[armand80sc]

Thanks for the replies.
The mechanical portion of switch was bad - it would lock up sometimes in certain positons and not move at all, other times not turn completely. Electrical portion works fine using screwdriver to turn it. WD40 in the keyhole didnt help. Took it to locksmith who suggested getting a new unit.

[80nick]

Originally Posted by spuggy

Sticky pin. Hit it with silicon lube for 30 seconds right in the key hole. Wipe off all the gummed up junk that comes out. Then hit it again. And again. Really, don't spare the silicon.

Work the key in and out in between to move all the pins around until they slide freely. Repeat every couple of years.

Or the back of the tumbler is separated causing the switch not to turn. I went through this a couple of months ago. I would get in the car, insert key, turn, and nothing. Replaced electrical part first, no change. Thought I had to replace the entire switch. Instead of shelling out almost $700 for a new switch assembly I thought I would take it apart first. Found that the little disc behind the tumbler that is pressed onto two little nubs had separated which caused the key not to engage the electrical part. Pressed it back on and re-peened the disc and have had zero problems sent.

I'll post a link to the thread that helped me rebuild it in a minute. Also, while it was apart I had my local locksmith re-key the ignition tumbler to the door key, cost was $24.

[80nick]

Ignition switch springing problem

[tirwin]

Nick's suggestion could be the trick. My cylinder was just too far gone.

Tony is the man when it comes to working on the cylinders though. If he can't fix it, it can't be fixed. He rekeyed mine and spruced up all my cylinders for a very reasonable price.