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Transmission Split options
Ok, so I've gotten myself in a jam a little bit this morning. After having the drivetrain out of the car for a few days, it came time to separate the transmission from the block. Problem being that I did not take off either of the clutch arms while the motor was in the car.
What't the easiest way to remove that linkage now that the drivetrain is on a dolly? I'm imagining lifting the whole thing up with straps from the bottom of the motor, but it seems like to would be tought to work on it without being able to apply a whole lot of torque to anything. Can anyone think of a better way? Is there a trick to removing that linkage from the top? Thanks All, -Matt |
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Just remove the small arm and you can separate them. The large arm should spin freely on the shaft allowing the shift fork to rotate as you separate them.
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Pete 79 911SC RoW "Tornadoes come out of frikkin nowhere. One minute everything is all sunshine and puppies the next thing you know you've got flying cows".- Stomachmonkey |
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Can you remove it, or how would you remove it while looking at the motor from above?
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Got to get under it to remove the clip and arm.
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Pete 79 911SC RoW "Tornadoes come out of frikkin nowhere. One minute everything is all sunshine and puppies the next thing you know you've got flying cows".- Stomachmonkey |
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Ok.
Are there circlips on both arms? They don't seem abundantly obvious in that picture... |
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no just the small one.
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1982 911SC, Mocal oil cooler, Bilsteins, Carrera tensioners, backdated heat, factory short shift, Seine gate shift, turbo tie rods, pop off. 2005 Mercedes-Benz C230 kompressor sport 6-speed (daily driver) |
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Picture of your current set-up......
Quote:
Matt, How's the engine and transmission currently set-up? Do you have it on a dolly? Post a picture so people would have a better idea how it is sitting now. All you need is access to the circlip that holds the clutch position lever in place. Remove the circlip and clutch position lever (small arm with spring attached) and 4 securing nuts by the transmission bell housing and you are done!!!!! Keep us posted. Tony Last edited by boyt911sc; 03-26-2013 at 08:33 AM.. |
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Quote:
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I use a small prybar. it should come off pretty easily. you don't need to really pry it, just pop it free.
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1982 911SC, Mocal oil cooler, Bilsteins, Carrera tensioners, backdated heat, factory short shift, Seine gate shift, turbo tie rods, pop off. 2005 Mercedes-Benz C230 kompressor sport 6-speed (daily driver) |
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Is it essential that the large clutch arm be removed? It is free of the rest of the linkage.
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Pictures
Pics...
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() My apologies for the still pretty dirty state. This is after a valiant effort to degrease the whole works.... Here is the before picture: ![]() |
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Small arm has been removed. The large arm does not want to budge. Maybe the transmission is not in neutral? Does it need to be?
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As long as it can swing freely, no. Trans should come off easy now
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Kinsley 1980 SC Targa - MS2, EDIS |
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Didn't see your second post. You should be able to pull off the transmission now. Arm won't move because the fork is engaged. But will move with the tranny being pulled off. Not sure I'm being clear, but just go ahead and separate it now.
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Two quick questions;
Is the helper (omega) spring off? As it's sitting on the dolly, is the big arm free to rotate? And one other quick question - the starter is removed right? I did the same thing you did - remember the lever needed to come out after it was on the dolly.. I feel your pain
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Quote:
The big arm won;t budge at all, in any direction. Is the large arm supposed to move freely? I think it may be seized to the shaft. |
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I would spray some pb blaster on it, whack it a few times with a mallet and wait a couple hours and try again with the pry bar.
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1982 911SC, Mocal oil cooler, Bilsteins, Carrera tensioners, backdated heat, factory short shift, Seine gate shift, turbo tie rods, pop off. 2005 Mercedes-Benz C230 kompressor sport 6-speed (daily driver) |
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