I've been contemplating of which you speak.

I had Utton's weld on the new wevo rear sway bar mounts and all the associated stuff that goes with it today. I haven't looked underneath yet to check the welds and such, but she drives a lot smoother now, and no clanging when going over bumps.

The CV joint noise was gone today, too. I wonder if jacking the car up sort of "resets" things in the joints and they work well for another 100 miles or so. I'm still planning on going in there and trying to fix it myself this week.

When you jack it up you extend beyond the normal operating geometry which may indeed grant your balls access to fresh grease if you're running low. No homo.

No need to take the axle nut off. Just remove the bolts on the inner and outer CV's.
It's easier to get the inners with the wheel removed and a long extention (won't need to get under the car). You'll only be able to get the top 3 bolts then release the emergency brake, rotate, set brake and get the other 3.

The large pipe should not be copper, go with steel so it doesn't bend or break. The longer better. Mine is about 8 feet long. Funny, I found it in my basement not attached to anything. It was amazing how easy they turned.

Don't buy just one socket, get a range of sizes. I got mine from craftsman, only $40. I don't use them all frequently but they have come in handy a number of times. I got impact sockets so they serve 2 purposes plus a little stronger.

For the hex vs allen bolts (the 12 bolts below)... I had half and half. Luckily, I had purchased the hex socket about 25 years prior for my VW Rabbit...and believe it or not, I found it!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1322968638.jpg

And here, all these years, I've been putting grease on the shaft rather than the balls - learn something new every day! :p

this is good news

good idea on how to get to the bottom 3

Confirm the detachable hubs at the wheel. BTDT....replacements and SC OEMs are solid at the wheel......

I don't know what this means...

Can someone please explain this to me? I haven't taken apart a CV joint before, and there is no Bentley manual for my year of Porsche 911.

Not sure what Joe Bob is referring to.
Did you buy a complete axle with CV's on it or just the CV's and boots?

I agree, I don't understand what joe bob is saying. Taking out the CV is very straight forward.

1. Remove the cotter pin from the hub inside the wheels. You can get it with a pair of needlenose pliers and a small screwdriver. Don't worry about ruining the cotterpin, you can get new ones from any hardware store.
2. Remove the big a$$ nut from inside the wheels using the breaker bar discussed above.
3. Jack up the car and VERY securely keep it propped up. BTW, you want to do this AFTER you remove the nut inside the wheel do when you struggle to get the bolt loose, you don't knock the car off the stands.
4. Take smaller allen sockets and remove the 6 bolts that hold CV to tranny.
5. Remove CV.

There really isn't any special instructions, it is how you would expect it. To put it into perspective, the first time I did this I was 17 with no previous car work experience. Just dive in and go for it. There isn't much you can do wrong taking it off.

the assembled joints, boots and associated bolts, clamps and gaskets. no moon clips or caps or schnorr washers

how do I get to the center hub with the wheel on? I have those 964 turbo wheels. if the tire is on, how can I get to the hub nut?

I've seen some setups on here with a big @$$ screwdriver to keep the wheel hub steady while breaking the hub nut loose. I agree, I don't want to tip over my car.

What do you think about what someone else said on here, can I remove axel by only removing the inner and outer bolts and leaving the hub alone?

Thanks

Hey Andrew,

You need to pop out center cap on the wheel by removing the wheel and gently pop the cap off. do the same on the other side, replace the wheels on the car, lower and use the proper socket and huge breaker bar and loosen, raise, remove wheels then remove axel.

jim

Why is everyone wanting you to remove the axle nut?
He's changing CV joints not doing wheel bearings.
6 bolts on the inner CV and 6 bolts on the outer and it's off.

That is a good point, you can do it that way as well. I prefer removing the axle nut so I can pack it nicely and have it all sealed up before putting it in. Then you only have to worry about keeping 1 side clean while putting it in. That said, either way is fine.

On my euro delivery 83......the axle flange with wheel side CV joint is one piece. It has to be removed as a unit. Axle nut at the wheel and the six transmission flange bolts are the removal areas.

Older models can be disconnected on the inside of the wheel and at the trans flange leaving the stub axle inside the wheel bearing. Getting to the six bolts inside the swing arm isn't easy and I would always remove it as a complete assembly piece. Standard procedure in all of my books.

Of course you can do anything you'd like.....experienced opinions were asked for. I gave mine. One humongous bolt versus 6 allen heads that run the risk of stripping and have to be felt for and likely filled with grease and road grime.

Have at it.

+1, What JB said ^^^^

ah, thanks Draco and Joe Bob for clarifying.

Hopefully I'll have an hour or so tonight to get started on this. I think I'm going to do what Joe Bob and Draco suggest. I didn't see that the center of the wheel is a pop-off.

This makes me feel better about trying to crack the hub nut if the car is on it's wheels. I was having nightmares about my car falling off the jack and stand

Center of the wheel is a pop off? I don't follow.

It's a cap.....it can be removed.....CAREFULLY from the outside with a thin metal spatula if you REALLY have to. Most simply remove the wheel and take the ass end of a hammer and tap it off from the inside.

You have spacers which makes the cotter pin removal a bit harder.

Do yourself a favor, lift the car, pull the wheel, pull the spacer and cotter.....leave the spacer off, lower the car and crack the castellated nut.

CVs and axles with non detachable hub.....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1366072126.jpg