Ok, GotThe Spacer Off. TheCotter Pin Doesn't HaveMuch Room. AmI Supposed To Take Anything Else Off?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1366929711.jpg

Couple of ways....reach in with a pair of needle nose pliers. Put one of the jaws in the cotter pin hole, twist and pull.

Other way is put a pair of cutters on the end and give it a snip. slide out the left overs.

Can you move back and show the completer hub assembly?

I got it out. I was hesitant to bend it at all, but I was gentle with the needle nose pliers and it came out.

Man, having that pipe to go over the breaker bar is KEY! Those spacers were on there really well. I used PB blaster on them last night and tonight I finally got it off.

Turns out my castellated nut is 30mm. Not 36mm. Not 32mm. 30mm. So no more progress tonight. I bought a 32mm a couple of days ago. 3rd time is a charm.
Please tell me I can use a 32mm elsewhere on my car for something down the road.

I feel good about being able to do this tomorrow and over the weekend

Is there any risk with the spacers not being balanced when I put them back on? Seems like there was some play where the bolts go through the openings. Could you possibly screw it back on so that an imbalance occurs?

I can tomorrow. I already put everything back together (except for the cotter pin!)

BTW, it looks like they did a good job at Utton's here in town installing my Wevo rear sway bar mounts and such. The welds looked really thorough, all the new rubber bits I bought were installed and looks like it is properly placed under the transmission mount (i think that is what that big wide metal bar is)

They have a great reputation for being fair and doing solid work. No BS with the crew there. There are some other shops in town that are circuses.

thanks for the recommendation. The guy working on my car also owns a 911 that he is fixing up. Put my mind at ease knowing a fellow enthusiast was working on my car.

They are busy as heck there. Takes a week + to get your car in

Here's the pic Joe Bob requested:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1367015919.jpg


I got the hub nut loose, but now I need a 22mm socket for the shock. Gah. More delays.

P.S., that mess you see on the cardboard is PB blaster, not engine oil :)

I have a 15/16" socket and tried using it, but it almost got stuck on the bolt...I didn't want to risk damaging it, so I'm gonna walk over to my buddies later on tonight (if he's around) and borrow his.

So you put the spacer back on? Gonna have to take it off again to tighten the nut and put the cotter pin back in.

yeah, I was concerned that if I didn't put the black spacer back on that the wheel would not fit and would hit that arm holding the brakes and stuff. So I put it back on. but I didn't torque it very much. I definitely wanted the car on the ground when trying to crack that nut.

I'd rather take my time with this to learn and make sure I do things right than try for speed. I can always walk to work and the auto supply store and the grocery store is about 100ft from me. I don't "need" a car.

So I have 2 spacers on, right? I read some other thread on here where a dude thought is was a spacer but it was his wheel hub and he got semi-flamed for not knowing.
If I took off what I believe is a spacer between the black spacer and the hub, it sure would have made getting that cotter pin out a lot easier! But I didn't know what would happen if I took it off, so I left it.

Am I ok to leave my car on the jack (not pictured above, but it is in the built-in jack support hole on the passenger side) and jack stand as pictured? It saves me 15 min or so not having to get setup and taking wheels and stuff off tomorrow morning. The other jack is there to support the arm when I remove the shock.

all right, just loosened all the inner bolts.
That PB blaster stuff makes a big difference. It seems like whenever I do stuff like this, bolts get stripped every time. I let it soak, wiped away the gunk, repeat.
I put the car in neutral, released ebrake, rotated the axel to get to new bolts, put back in gear and ebrake on.

Do I really have to take the shock bolt off? Can I remove the axel with it still in place?
The jack that I have underneath ready to catch the arm sinks down over say, 1/2 hour. Is it ok if that happens or will it bend important metal components?

All right! got it off. Now the fun part!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1367071088.jpg

BTW, I really don't think I needed to touch the shock bolt at all. I had plenty of room to remove the axle.

Is this what it is supposed to look like at the tranny?


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1367071341.jpg
Is that the outer cover of the inner CV joint stuck to my tranny?
There was another thread on here and the guy had to take the cover off after he pulled the axle. But his picture of the tranny with the axle out looks like mine so I'm not sure. Seems like I do need a cover, otherwise packing it with grease will be difficult...

I guess I should clean it up?

You're fine.....just clean out the old grease, replace the gasket, put a gob of new grease in there.
Make sure to not get any grease on the mating surfaces including the gasket.

cool, thanks for the tip about not getting grease elsewhere.

The other side will go a lot faster, I'm Sure! :)

Have you got a torque wrench?
PM me if you need one. I can give you a hand if you want.

Uh-oh.
There are "lips" formed here...doesn't seem like a good thing. Do I replace this part (which I don't have right now)? Or can a dremel them down so they are smooth again?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1367072713.jpg