Removing rust from your gas tank - Electrolysis
 

This method definitely works. I am in the process of doing mine. I have already mixed one solution using water and Arm & Hammer Sodium Carbonate.

Drain and remove the tank - flush it out. Remove the drain plug and plug with a "screw type rubber plug". Cap the fuel line and the return fuel line.

Fill the tank approximately 3/4 full with water using approximately 12 oz of A & H. Fabricate a 3/8 rod long enough to go down into the tank but not touching the bottom -

Using a battey charger - connect the negative (-) terminal to the outside of the tank. Wrap tape around the part of the 3/8 rod that could come in contact with the tank - suspend it using electrical tape and a short dowell.

Connect the positive (+) terminal to the rod and turn the power on. After approximately 2 hours you should see rust sludge on the top of the solution.

Dump it out and repeat - As the tank starts to clean it will turn black - that's normal.

Once completed get a gallon of PPG DX 520 - you can buy it on line or if there is a local auto PPG company near they can order it for you.

It will convert any remaining rust you may have missed - I doubt it though - and it will also lay down a zinc phospate coat on the metal to protect it from further rust.

It works - you can do your own research on the internet - that's where I found out about it.

"If its on the Internet it has to be true"
.....

oxidation ------->

<--------- reduction

I did this to mine. I used a car battery charger and it definitely worked but was much to slow for my taste. After a few days of playing with it I ended up hitting it with muriatic acid.

The really sad thing - After a very thorough cleaning and re-stone guarding the outside about two months later I was lowering the tub on my scissor lift (just a few inches) and didn't realize the tank was under the rear end and put a huge dent in the top. Yes - I'm an idiot.

Did you kink tank badly?

I've used a heat gun and compressed air to pop dents back out of old motorcycle tanks.

:)

stormcrow-

Thanks for the tip. I have lots of time so I will try this on an old tank I am trying to save.

I was told the White Vinegar will do a similar cleaning job. Anyone try this before?

It sure works with old brackets & hand tools that have been rusted.

Len

:)

BoxsterGT,

For more information do a search on Youtube. There are plenty of videos out there that will show you how to do it. I think white viniger will work also -

I used a combination of salt and Arm & Hammer. I believe the main reason for using an additive is to get good conductivity between the inside of the tank and the positive electrode.

I did a partial on mine yesterday and a lot of the "flaking rust" was removed by this process.

Nope, gotta have an alkaline solution for the reaction (called reduction) to occur at the tank surface. You couldn't, for example, just dump in salt to make it more conductive.

My new favorite is Evaporust - after you boil out the tank, fill it with a few gallons and watch the rust chelate away. I use it on everything. The work it does on pitted chrome is unbelievable. My favorite thing is that it is non-toxic and non-corrosive.

chelate... had to look that one up.

Here's a pic of the flat stock that I used on the positive terminal. As you can see it is rusted - I submersed the tip of it into the DX 520 Rust Converter and as you can see by the pictures it converted the rust and coated it with a layer of zinc phospate.

As you can see by the picture there are some rust spots because I was in a hurry to see the results and kind of wiped some off with a rag.

I just completed sloshing the solution inside the tank, drained out the excess and will check it out tomorrow after it has time to dry.

I think this is going to work out just great - will post my results.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1365127663.jpg