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Scott S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Mile High City
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Question Help/understanding of Weltmeister sway bar play... I know - beat to death...

When scrubbing the wheel wells on the 911, I noticed that that one of the arms that is attached to the Weltmeinter front bar had partially slid off - to the point there was a small wear mark in the paint of the strut tube (very small).

I loosened up the clamping nut/bolt, slid it back on to the square end of the bar and tightened it up. Now, when the car is in a neutral steering position (going straight) I have a clunk in the front end when hitting slight bumps (the car did not make a sound prior - rock solid). I crawled up under the car and the only thing I can get to make any noise is the front swaybar. It moves 1/8 to 1/4" side to side and clunks. Is this a bushing replacement? If so, does the bushing go in from the wheel well side of the bar, or is it captured on the inside (under the gas tank).

I have done searches and read Wayne's book, but I just dont see how you can really service the bar without pulling the gas tank. Can someone give me a step by step?

I apologize for my ignorance - I have only had under-body bars in the past. I dont know the ins and outs of the through body bars at all.

I have this bar (in terms of hardware), but with the turnbuckle style drop links (pic 2)









Thanks a million for any help/direction -
Scott S

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Last edited by Scott S; 04-08-2013 at 08:26 AM..
Old 04-08-2013, 08:14 AM
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Couple of thoughts...

First, Weltmeister used to sell those pivot bushings separately. I'd check with them to see if they still do. But I believe you're correct, to undo the 3 bolts per side to get the bushings out is much easier with the fuel tank removed. Unless the inner nut plates were welded in place and the bushing carrier in the wheelwell is just bolted in place.

Second, the lever arms should be adjusted inward on each side so that they are almost rubbing the pivot bushing. When done properly, there should be very slight lateral movement, just a couple mm, when trying to move the bar left to right. Essentially enough gap so that the pieces can pivot freely. If there's too much free play laterally you'll get noises as the sway bar moves left and right inside the bushings.

And finally, back when I had Weltmeister bars, and it's been probably 15 years since I've moved on from those, the heim joints in those adjustable drop links were junk. I think I had to replace 1 or 2 of the joints every year. They would wear out, then clank and bang.
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'86 911 Coupe (endless 3.6 transplant finally done!)
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Old 04-08-2013, 08:32 AM
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Thanks Ed!
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- A pile of British stuff
- A growing pile of German stuff
... oh, and two Hondas - complete with car seats and pounds of fish crackers smashed into the carpet (and seats, and door pockets, etc etc etc....)
Old 04-08-2013, 08:34 AM
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Instead of moving the arms inward to limit side-to-side bar movement, perhaps you can install a thick nylon/plastic/neoprene spacer in that space to accomplish the same thing. Or maybe the geometry or rub factor doesn't matter how that gets accomplished.

To limit rear sway bar movement, one fix is to install a hose clamp on the inboard side of each sway bar chassis bushing.

Sherwood

Old 04-08-2013, 08:48 AM
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