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Decklid latch problem
I dislike surprises, but this one seems pretty simple to fix after a little research. Today while adding oil, I found that my engine decklid latch had come apart. :mad:
The male plunger was pinned into the female socket and I miraculously had all of the pieces. In this case, I had to check the PET because the Bentley manual (and the Pelican parts listing) shows the male portion as a whole assembly without a parts break down. To help the next guy, here's a link to the image: Pelican Parts - Product Information: 930-512-052-00-M100. Hate to say it, but I was so torqued off I couldn't figure out how to put it back together and was praying I hadn't lost any pieces. Thankful, though, that this happened in my driveway on a really nice day (and my wife is out of town--for the car's sake). Anyway--any thoughts on how this happened? I assume it vibrated loose, but after a thorough search didn't see anyone else with this problem. Best, Dave |
How the latch works is the piece under the plate is actually a jam nut. The "rose" looking piece that captures the spring is the jam nut i'm referring to. Took me a while to figure this out the first time I had to adjust the plunger depth on my latch.
Also note that adjusting the plunger depth takes a little patience. It is VERY sensitive to depth settings. Set it too short and it gets hung up, not wanting to release the engine lid. Very frustrating when you can't get the lid open to re-adjust! Set it too long and your decklid doesn't sit flush with the fender lines when fully latched, and will spring up & down when you push down on the lid. |
And if, like myself, you get it hung up? I'd sacrifice the cable from the door end but don't think that will help.
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I was lucky that I had my engine out of the car when I was installing a duck tail rear lid. So when it got hung up, I could crawl underneath and get inside the engine compartment to free it.
Recently put the original engine lid back on my car and had to fiddle with the adjustment again. Got hung up a few times but I was able to jockey the lid around from the outside and free it. Bottom line, make very small adjustments to avoid going too far and ending up with a lid stuck shut that is near impossible to open with the engine in place! |
If you do get it too tight, you can try having somebody press on the deck lid while pulling on the cable - but it's the kind of thing you want to be very careful adjusting, and start loose and slowly work your way tighter.
Chuck.H '89 TurboLookTarga, 350k miles |
Tried the 2 person method. Tried driving to jiggle too. Found other threads before I started messing around but not this. If nothing else I'm going to sandwich a blade between 2 sheets of flashing and cut the stinger. Oh well, pretty sure I needed a new latch and now I'll end up with a new stinger also.
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Hmm maybe you can remove the heat exchanger connection tube and reach your hand up thru the hole in the engine metal tin?
Chuck.H '89 TurboLookTarga, 350k miles |
I thought about it but don't remember anyplace to get access. The car has been sitting for a number of years, owned for about 27, and I'm just now starting to go through it. Maybe 20 miles since I pulled it out? Fun as I remember.
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...this is when I confess that had to adjust it once when putting it back together I haven't tried to reopen it yet...because it looks so much better now that its "tight".:rolleyes:
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I have a similar question. I put a new decklid (with a Carrera tail) on the car today, and am having a bear of a time getting the latch to work right.
First, I installed the latch just like on the old tail. Just bolted it to the decklid, and gave it a go. It wasn't lined up to go into the circular opening. So I loosened, shimmied it closer to the edge of the decklid, and tightened. It was definitely lined up better, but closing the decklid didn't engage the latch, and it wouldn't stay shut. I tried closing it HARD, and that appeared to work. So I took the family to dinner (we are little people, all four of us fit!) and after getting back home, I noticed... the decklid was slightly open. So then I figured, OK, the springy "male" part isn't extending enough (there is surely a joke in here somewhere), and I figured I'd try shimming it out a bit with washers. So I put a washer in each side, hoping it would help the male part to engage the female end (having trouble typing this without laughing). It seems to be better, but doesn't feel like it did before. Is there an adjustment point to the mechanism that mounts to the decklid? I don't see any, just eyeballing it. I don't want to have problems with it getting jammed shut. That would be "bad". Thanks -Glenn |
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Interesting... so I should probably remove the shim before I do that.
Thanks! |
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1398083715.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1398083741.jpg |
The assembly is made to bolt up in one direction make sure it's oriented properly.
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Whoa - I didn't see that it was only mountable one way. How can I tell which way is correct? Thanks
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BTW, learned later that the inner nut (at the top of the plunger assembly) was breaking loose. Rather than replace the entire assembly, my shop welded that in place. Now works like a champ and is secure.
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Kodioneill - you mean thin side faces the rear of the car, meaning if I am standing behind the car, facing the engine, thin side will be further away?
Just trying to avoid confusion, I have spent enough time looking at the back of the car that it begins to feel like the front. :-) |
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The thin part of the mount faces rear, away from the engine towards the tail lights.
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