Removing 12 pin Lambda connector

[toddu]

How does the connector remove from the bracket on the cross member? It slides about 1/4 inch front to back, but I don't see how it comes off the bracket.

Todd

[Pazuzu]

There's a latch underneath, you press up against a bump and the connector can then move an extra half in or so and come loose.

So, press backwards (towards the front of the car), while pressing use a screw driver and press up against anything on the bottom, and you'll feel it click apart.

Once it's out, it's easy to see how it works

The 14 pin connector on the engine bay side works the same way.

[toddu]

Is the connector separating from something that is connected to the bracket on the cross member, or the whole thing comes out of the bracket? I'm sure once It's out it will make complete sense :-).

Todd

[Pazuzu]

The only thing that stays in place is the actual metal that is welded to the body. Everything "plastic" goes for the ride at once.

I can take a picture at lunch if you need, since I just removed mine this weekend.

Edit: It's just like the 14 pin connector, if you removed that earlier.
Also, I'm ASSUMING that your 12 pin is the same as my 6 pin lambda connector, they must have changed it between 1980 and 1981.

[toddu]

When you get a chance, don't want to inconvenience you. Thanks a bunch!!!

Todd

[Pazuzu]

Originally Posted by toddu

When you get a chance, don't want to inconvenience you. Thanks a bunch!!!

Todd

While you're waiting...
removing and cleaning 14 pin connector

[Pazuzu]

There's a figure-8 type depression that goes into the mount, and the locking tab is on one end. Kinda hard to see...


The mount is designed for the harness to go either way, it's a generic piece welded to the engine bay.


My plug looks different on each end, the end with the deep depression on the end has the tab, maybe you can use that to tell whether your tab is on the end nearest or farthest to you as you stand looking at the engine bay.



The tab simply prevents it from sliding to the next set of openings where it can lift out, you can clearly feel the tab let go when you press up on it.

[toddu]

Success!!! Thanks so much!!

Now need to decide if I should grind the bracket off.

Todd

[Pazuzu]

Tell me if you find a way to get that lambda harness removed one one piece. I couldn't get that end crammed past the firewall junction, and decided to chop the whole harness in half instead.

[toddu]

I'll let you know. Your plug looks more stout than mine (think they changed in '81). I looked at the grommet in the firewall and it seems fairly significant in size. Probably try to tackle this some evening this week.

Are you moving to carbs or Motronic or something?

Todd

[timmy2]

Lol, 2 guys with brand new wiring harnesses helping each other out...
Bitz kit and carbs if I remember correctly.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by Pazuzu

Tell me if you find a way to get that lambda harness removed one one piece. I couldn't get that end crammed past the firewall junction, and decided to chop the whole harness in half instead.

Pazuzu,

The complete ECU harness could be completely recovered by pulling the rubber grommet towards the cabin. Once the rubber grommet is dislodged from the firewall mounting, you could pull the rest of the wire including the 12-pin connector towards the interior of the car. I have recovered several ECU wires already by doing this simple step.

Tony

[James Brown]

you can also pry carefully off the cap of the plug and remove each wire and pin, this makes fishing the wire loom easer through the firewall, Make sure you put the wires back in the same slot or the guy you sell the harness will hunt you down.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by James Brown

you can also pry carefully off the cap of the plug and remove each wire and pin, this makes fishing the wire loom easer through the firewall, Make sure you put the wires back in the same slot or the guy you sell the harness will hunt you down.

James,

The whole connector will slide through the hole at the firewall. Why remove the pins?

Tony

[James Brown]

no reason, when i did mine, the cap came off and i was holding 12 wires, good thing there numbered/color coded

[Pazuzu]

Actually, i meant getting the connectors and such past the back of the engine bay firewall/crossbar region, where the fuel lines, AC lines, vacuum lines, electrical lines and everything else are crammed in there. It was so tight on mine that i could barely get the wiring loom to slide up and down, much less get a connector passed through there. The sheath around that wiring loom was cracking and shattering, and like every other factory line in my car, was close to self destructing anyways. Cutting the whole thing was the most humane thing i could do for it...

The rubber firewall grommet is easy, and already relocated to my Bitz wiring loom