"CLUNK" (clutch cable)

[wslynn67]

On the way through the parking garage this morning, I here the dreaded "CLUNK" and my clutch cable goes to the floor. Luckily, I made it to a parking space. I think I have a spare cable at home from the previous owner.

Is this a parking lot fix-it job, or am I best off getting a tow home first? Can I replace the inner part of the cable without replacing the sleeve?

Thought I'd share the wonderful news. My 1971 is my daily driver and I'm incessantly bragging to my wife about how reliable it is, especially for a 30 year old car. Time to eat a little crow.



Scott Lynn
1971 911e (wounded)

[Blizzard]

Scott,
I am assuming that your cable is the same as my 1984 911. If it is, it's possible to do it in the lot. The worst part of the job is connecting the cable at the pedal end because its a tight squeeze. You do not need to replace the outer core.
There is a PP technical article on this which also covers clutch adjustment. Do not try to replace the helper spring in the parking lot.


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Paul
1984 911 Targa
1986 911 Coupe

[davis911s]

Scott, I agree with Paul, you can do this in your parking lot.

As for your wife, since you already have the part, therefore no money needed. Just fix it in the parking lot, forget to mention it to her, and she is none the wiser to the fact that "once in a while older Porsches need a little work"



Shawn

[Jdub]

I really dunno if the '71 is anything like my '78. Starting from the front, it could be that you have a trunnion pin that has broken from the clutch "ear" on your pedal assembly. Or perhaps the trunnion pin has won the war here, killing the small brass bushing and now "eaten" through the metal of the clutch pedal "ear." Or, the cable may be frayed: you must find out where and rectify the problem.

Getting under the car will help. Expect to pull the wood covering the pedal assembly, of course, and get in there with a flashlight to see what's up. I think you can do this in the garage but you should have a multitude of tools to cover all possibilities. Personally, if the cost of the tow/flatbed was under $75.00 I would just ask AAA to cover it and have your own garage with tools to effect the repair.

But maybe that's just cause I need some beer nearby!

Good Luck,
Jw

[campbellcj]

Unfortunately it could also be the 'roll pin'...the 70/71 cars had a kinda funky clutch design and this pin is one of the weak points. That is a semi major project to replace and I left it up to the pros.

I also have had the guide tube mentioned by Jdub break. That was a real PITA cuz it's a $7 part but I was 125 miles from home, in the boondocks, and it was Sunday! I replaced it with the stronger metal aftermarket version for added piece of mind.

A few pics -
http://www.nosubstitute.org/911e/images/clguide1.jpg
http://www.nosubstitute.org/911e/images/clguide2.jpg
http://www.nosubstitute.org/911e/images/clguide3.jpg
http://www.nosubstitute.org/911e/images/clguide4.jpg



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Chris C.
73 914 2.0
70 911E Targa
campbell.chris@gte.net

[wslynn67]

I should add that I have a 915 tranny. I went out and crawled under the car to look at it. The cable broke where it makes a sharp bend just prior to attaching to the transmission.

[GIBSON]

Yes, check other possible problems as well.
My 71 broke the "pivot" pin on the throw-out arm. Felt like a lost cable but was much more involved to fix. If I remember correctly, the 70/71's had the first of the pull clutch design, they improved the design with the 915 in '72

Bruce Herrmann

[nhromyak]

If you trust your starter, you can drive it home/garage too. I had to do this twice. Once, in my '73 and again in my '85. City streets are not a problem. However, shifting can be fun. If you think you can match RPMS with the next gear, it will slide right into the next highest gear.

Put it in second gear, start engine, some bulking, then engine will catch, and your off. Beware of the driver in front of you at red lights. Green lights are your friend
When you need to stop, like when you come up to a red light. Pop it out of gear.

Note: I am sure many would rather pay for a tow-truck. I am a little cheap

Have FUN!


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Nick Hromyak
'85 Carrera 7 & 9 Fuchs
Havin' Fun in Sacramento

[jlex]

Scott:
It only took me any hour to replace the clutch cable in my '85.... decided to do it before it surprised me one day.
Just make sure you have the cable housing pushed up against the bulkhead as far as it's supposed to go when you put the new one in... if it seems to be too "short" then its not pushed in far enough.
regards,
jlex.

[Early_S_Man]

Be sure to check the clevis and pin/clip first, because if you don't have one on hand, and it breaks or won't come off easily ... the new cable will be useless! And, be sure to lube the new cable thoroughly with a good moly grease over its' entire length as you feed it into the firewall tube!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa
1992 Dodge Dakota 5.2 4X4 parts hauler

[stevelb]

Same thing happened to me about 6 weeks ago. Managed to drive home in rush hour traffic starting in 2nd gear and speed shifting to third. Purchased a clutch cable. Not the problem. Finally realized the pedal shaft was not moving. Went back to the p-parts store a couple of days later and purchased the roll pin. Pulled the pedal box out to replace the roll pin. Not the problem. Broken pedal shaft was the problem. Another trip back to the p-parts store for a new pedal shaft.

This was the longest down time with my 911SC daily driver in six years, all because I did not listen to my mechanic 5 years ago when I had bronze bushings installed in the pedal box to fix a stiff pedal problem. Mechanic suggested that the pedal shaft be replaced due to significant wear attributed to disintegrated nylon bushings. I elected not to replace the shaft since they would have to keep the car overnight to get the part. Bad move on my part.

Inspection of the failed pedal shaft revealed a diameter of 0.5509 inches at non wearing points and 0.5101 at the first bushing shoulder. The shaft obviously failed due to stress concentrations at the sharp-edged wear point with only 40 thousandths reduction in diameter. I should have known better...I learned all about stress concentrations in engineering school! Further, the importance of this topic was drilled into my head when getting my pilots license. I should have replaced the pedal shaft 5 years ago. It is hard to tell how many cycles the clutch pedal shaft has gone through in 200k miles...a stress concentration + many cycles = failure.

Listen to your mechanic! My R&R of the pedal box took 3 days and was a royal pain! A pro can easily do it quicker, but I didn't want to have to tow the car for what seemed like an easy fix. NOT. Total downtime, 1 1/2 weeks inluding time waiting on parts.

Moral of the story. Wait one more day and do it right the first time.