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Carmagic.us
 
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car started leaking oil after going from Brad Penn to Kendall

Changed oil and filter. I choose Kendall 20/50, and now it's leaking oil.

I can see one place where the oil return tube is lose that I can move it a bit left and right, and turn it. That I could replace with a 2-piece tube. However, it looks like it's also now leaking left and right between the cam tower and heads, and also at the bottom where the casing split is.

I cleaned it when I did the oil change, it had a lot of dust/oil film on it, now it looks clean but it's leaking. I cleaned it up today, and will check it again tomorrow, and see if I can find exact where the leaks are.



This is on my 82 SC, not the 3.6.

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Old 11-16-2013, 01:15 PM
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I doubt the switch in oil brands is your problem. Start with changing your oil return tubes, I'd do all four. Sometimes if they're very old/high mileage just twisting or moving them will cause them to start leaking.
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Old 11-16-2013, 06:11 PM
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my car stopped leaking oil when i went from valvoline 20-50 to BP 20-50
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Old 11-16-2013, 06:28 PM
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My car dripped more with BP. Out of curiosity, where are you getting the Kendall from?
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Old 11-17-2013, 08:06 AM
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I've run Kendall and BP in the same engine, no leaks with either.
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Old 11-17-2013, 10:00 AM
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Perhaps it was the cleaning job that exposed the leaks. Dust and dirt act like a clot and to a certain degree slow/stop the leaking. Once stripped of that, well........
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Old 11-17-2013, 11:08 AM
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I switched over to synthetic and sprung leaks all over.
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Old 11-17-2013, 11:24 AM
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I tried the Kendall 20-50 titanium just to see and I noticed less oil pressure after only about 50 miles...unscientific but since it is/was the same weight as the BP I used I'd guess the viscosity degrades quickly and may allow for leaks where you had none before.
When I put the BP 20-50 back in (same ambient temp in Az summer) the oil pressure went back to 'normal' and stayed there thru the oils 3k cycle.
In the winter I run BP 10-40 and get a drip out of the rear crank seal...just a drip...when I go back to 20-50 for summer it goes away.
Old 11-17-2013, 12:05 PM
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I had the same problem… End up going back to BP.
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Old 11-17-2013, 12:10 PM
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Thanks for all the replys.

I checked it today again, after cleaning it up on Saturday.

Looks like this one is obvious the return tube which was really lose. This would be not that bad to replace, since I could do it without removing the headers.



Now this is on the left cam tower.



It's hard to tell, it could be also the oil return tube.

Here is a picture of the left rear oil return tube, this is a 2 piece and was replaced at one point. It's all dry.



The problem with the left front tube, I need to take the header off, and all the bolts are very rusted up. I don't want to get it that now.

I will go and clean up again today and take it for a ride and check again, and see if I can figure out the left side leak.

Thanks for all responses, and I think I will go back to BP after I have to drain the oil anyway.
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Old 11-18-2013, 07:51 AM
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Sure, this is classic, I did the same thing. When you mess with the calcified old return tubes by spinning or moving them, you dislodge whatever seal was left and they start leaking everywhere. The oil return tubes themselves can be fine, but the O rings die and there you are...

So get new return tubes in with fresh O rings and you can say goodbye to *that* leak anyways.
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Old 11-18-2013, 08:21 AM
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It can be done with the heat exchangers in place, it's a pain but do-able.
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Old 11-18-2013, 10:00 AM
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Yep, probably got a bit of grit under the ring on the tube when twisting/disturbing. Doesn't take much unfortunately.
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Old 11-18-2013, 10:47 AM
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I really doubt it was the oil. Synthetic oil is however known to have a very low viscosity and it will leak especially if you start using it in an engine that is older. I think that you should change return tubes on the one side, and remove your exhaust valve covers and install new gaskets. (and while you are at it might as well set the valves).
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Old 11-18-2013, 11:13 AM
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doesn't look like that engine has been apart in a long time and age takes it's toll on the sealant between heads and cam towers. some is better than others. check for rocker shaft leaks when the covers are off.
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Old 11-18-2013, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rothaus View Post
Changed oil and filter. I choose Kendall 20/50, and now it's leaking oil.

I can see one place where the oil return tube is lose that I can move it a bit left and right, and turn it. That I could replace with a 2-piece tube. However, it looks like it's also now leaking left and right between the cam tower and heads, and also at the bottom where the casing split is.

I cleaned it when I did the oil change, it had a lot of dust/oil film on it, now it looks clean but it's leaking. I cleaned it up today, and will check it again tomorrow, and see if I can find exact where the leaks are.



This is on my 82 SC, not the 3.6.
How ironic. Brad Penn claims to be the original Kendall GT oil of the 60s and 70s..http://www.penngrade1.com/History.aspx
Old 11-18-2013, 03:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ParkerFE View Post
How ironic. Brad Penn claims to be the original Kendall GT oil of the 60s and 70s..Our History
True, and it was a good product then....the 'Kendall' of today ain't your Grandfathers oil.

Old 11-18-2013, 05:47 PM
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