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Carmagic.us
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,113
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car started leaking oil after going from Brad Penn to Kendall
Changed oil and filter. I choose Kendall 20/50, and now it's leaking oil.
I can see one place where the oil return tube is lose that I can move it a bit left and right, and turn it. That I could replace with a 2-piece tube. However, it looks like it's also now leaking left and right between the cam tower and heads, and also at the bottom where the casing split is. I cleaned it when I did the oil change, it had a lot of dust/oil film on it, now it looks clean but it's leaking. I cleaned it up today, and will check it again tomorrow, and see if I can find exact where the leaks are. ![]() This is on my 82 SC, not the 3.6.
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Docking Bay 94
Posts: 7,032
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I doubt the switch in oil brands is your problem. Start with changing your oil return tubes, I'd do all four. Sometimes if they're very old/high mileage just twisting or moving them will cause them to start leaking.
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Kurt |
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: venice ca
Posts: 928
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my car stopped leaking oil when i went from valvoline 20-50 to BP 20-50
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Jason 81 SC 97 328is 87 Jeep Comanche (RIP) |
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muck-raker
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Coastal PNW
Posts: 3,059
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My car dripped more with BP. Out of curiosity, where are you getting the Kendall from?
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STONE '88 Cabriolet, using EP Slick 20w50 partial synthetic Snake Oil...just as Rommel intended. ![]() Deny Everything; Admit Nothing; and Always Make Counter-accusations ![]() |
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Docking Bay 94
Posts: 7,032
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I've run Kendall and BP in the same engine, no leaks with either.
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Kurt |
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Perhaps it was the cleaning job that exposed the leaks. Dust and dirt act like a clot and to a certain degree slow/stop the leaking. Once stripped of that, well........
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The "collection" 1983 911 SC Targa (1 of 1430 imported) 1994 MB E320 Coupe (1 of 825 imported) 1992 MB 190E 2.6 2004 Volvo V70 2.5 Turbo (1 of a bazillion imported) ![]() |
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I switched over to synthetic and sprung leaks all over.
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Vance '83 SC Cabriolet - The "Matrix" '73 914 - "Spicy Mustard" - SOLD |
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Reiver
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 57,476
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I tried the Kendall 20-50 titanium just to see and I noticed less oil pressure after only about 50 miles...unscientific but since it is/was the same weight as the BP I used I'd guess the viscosity degrades quickly and may allow for leaks where you had none before.
When I put the BP 20-50 back in (same ambient temp in Az summer) the oil pressure went back to 'normal' and stayed there thru the oils 3k cycle. In the winter I run BP 10-40 and get a drip out of the rear crank seal...just a drip...when I go back to 20-50 for summer it goes away. |
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83 911 Production Cab #10
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I had the same problem… End up going back to BP.
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Who Will Live... Will See ![]() ![]() ![]() 83 911 Production Cab #10, Slightly Modified: Unslanted, 3.2, PMO EFI, TECgt, CE 911 CAM Sync / Pulley / Wires, SSI, Dansk Sport 2/2, 17" Euromeister, CKO GT3 Seats, Going SOK Super Charger |
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Carmagic.us
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,113
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Thanks for all the replys.
I checked it today again, after cleaning it up on Saturday. Looks like this one is obvious the return tube which was really lose. This would be not that bad to replace, since I could do it without removing the headers. ![]() Now this is on the left cam tower. ![]() It's hard to tell, it could be also the oil return tube. Here is a picture of the left rear oil return tube, this is a 2 piece and was replaced at one point. It's all dry. ![]() The problem with the left front tube, I need to take the header off, and all the bolts are very rusted up. I don't want to get it that now. I will go and clean up again today and take it for a ride and check again, and see if I can figure out the left side leak. Thanks for all responses, and I think I will go back to BP after I have to drain the oil anyway.
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Great NorthWest
Posts: 3,950
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Sure, this is classic, I did the same thing. When you mess with the calcified old return tubes by spinning or moving them, you dislodge whatever seal was left and they start leaking everywhere. The oil return tubes themselves can be fine, but the O rings die and there you are...
So get new return tubes in with fresh O rings and you can say goodbye to *that* leak anyways.
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Docking Bay 94
Posts: 7,032
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It can be done with the heat exchangers in place, it's a pain but do-able.
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Kurt |
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Straight shooter
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Yep, probably got a bit of grit under the ring on the tube when twisting/disturbing. Doesn't take much unfortunately.
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“Of the value traps, the most widespread and pernicious is value rigidity. This is an inability to revalue what one sees because of commitment to previous values. In motorcycle maintenance, you MUST rediscover what you do as you go. Rigid values makes this impossible.” ― Robert M. Pirsig, Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Pontiac, IL
Posts: 952
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I really doubt it was the oil. Synthetic oil is however known to have a very low viscosity and it will leak especially if you start using it in an engine that is older. I think that you should change return tubes on the one side, and remove your exhaust valve covers and install new gaskets. (and while you are at it might as well set the valves).
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I don't always talk to liberal arts grads, but when I do, I tell them Big Mac and small fries! 1974 911 RUF Clone ('85 3.2; '86 915) 1974 914 ('87 3.2L & 915 transaxle) 2005 Boxster (Base car) Guards Red. |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,478
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doesn't look like that engine has been apart in a long time and age takes it's toll on the sealant between heads and cam towers. some is better than others. check for rocker shaft leaks when the covers are off.
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Reiver
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 57,476
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