Fear after replacing chain tensioners...
 

Last night I updated my chain tensioners, I didn't allow any slack, and im positive the chain did not slip a tooth on the cam sprockets. However, on the passenger side, the chain along the top, on the chain rail, seemed to be quite loose as compared to the tension on other parts of the chain. Is this normal? I plan on starting the motor tonight and I am a little nervous. Are there any post install checks i should do (aside from timing the cams)?

Any help is always greatly appreciated.

As I remember from having done it a couple of years ago, those chains should be so tight that you're more worried that they're _too_ tight (which is hard to do) as opposed to their being any slack. At least that's the case when replacing the whole assembly, as I did--chains, ramps and tensioners.

Stephan

When you pulled the pin out of the tensioner, did the piston pop out and push up on the idler spocket arm? With how much force? I re-timed my cams when I did mine and I found that the tensioner out of the box (not primed) did not have enough spring force to keep the chain tight enough for timing cams.

I think the spring is there to maintain some level of chain tension in the absence of oil and oil pressure.

Kemo
I agree with Stephen. When I did this, the chains were tight. Also, I did not first prime the little devils, as is now recommended by Wayne. Before starting the car after the installation, I rotated my engine very slowly for 2 full revolutions to ensure that I had no apparent issues with cam timing. Then, I disconnected the electrical lead to the fuel pump and cranked until I was showing a sustained 20 lbs. of oil pressure. My objective was to bleed the tensioners and firm them up at low revs. I next reconnected the fuel pump and fired it up. Everything has been fine ever since!

Good luck.

Jadams1,
I was hoping that might be the case. I am thinking that when the oil pressure comes up, maybe it will take out the slack. This slack was there when i first removed the covers and my passenger side tensioner was completely collapsed.

Kemo, how did you make out?

Jadams1,
I didnt get a chance to start the car last night, I still have a little work to do. I have to put the engine shelf back on along with the heater ducting, and of course the muffler. Im thinking about 1 more hour tonight and i can give it a try.

I hope it all works out. Let us know how it went.

Kemo,

Before you put the muffler back on ... why don't you pull the fuel pump relay, and the 6-pin CDI connector. Crank the engine over for a couple of minutes ... 30 seconds at a time ... with a 3-minute rest for the starter between cranking sessions. Then, pull the chain cover, and see if the slack is gone? If the slack is still there, you probably got one of the pressure-fed tensioners with the defective check valve! Good luck!

Warren's suggestions sounds like the winner. I perhaps got lucky because there seems to be plenty of spring tension on mine and I have had no problems at all. When I put them in, I had heard nothing about bench bleeding, etc. I took them out of the box and put them on the engine. Then I fired it up and went for a drive.

I would like to thank all of you guys for the input. The help i get here is invaluable. Everything is alive and well, no more slapping sounds from the back of the Engine. I just got back from a nice little spin up the North Dallas Tollway and i feel great! I got the engine good and warmed up and we will see if there are any oil drips in the morning...

Great news! Glad it all worked out. I agree with you, the advice and expertise from the members on this board is great.

After I drove mine for a while, I had to snug up the cam oil lines fittings a little.