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Pulled plugs for first time - help me read them pls
Used the factory tool to pull 1/2/3 - very easy, took about 45 seconds per.
Pictures shows L-R 1,2,3 They look fairly healthy to me what do you think? I see a uniform light gray on 2/3 and pretty much white on 1. Should I wire brush them lightly before putting them back in? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1367718881.jpg |
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look pretty ok to me. Reading plugs ain't what it used to be btw. The additives etc make that a pretty tough deal.
To get a real read you need to run the car at a good clip and cut the ignition...coast, then read the plugs to see what's happening under load at speed. What we are doing is reading at lean idle I'd guess and would only show a real problem if you had a major issue, oil fouling, with ring or guide wear. |
If you have the plugs out, change them out. They are not that costly. Saves you money in the long run.
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wrong plugs, use the cheap coper ones, one electrode, match the plugs to the year car. but they do look ok
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Not a fan of wire brushing with a powered wheel. A small fragment could end up deep inside the plug only to come out later. And yeah, ditch the platinum plugs from my experience. Should be able to find Bosch or NGK about anywhere.
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Took the advice of this forum... at $2.19 ea the bosch coppers seemed like a no brainer.
Got all 6 new ones in. 4/5/6 looked much like 1/2/3. Happy to find no surprises. Only minor hitch was that after "breaking" 4 & 6 loose with the tool it was hard/nearly impossible to back them the rest of the way out by hand. The threads looked fine, but I used a light coating of anti-seize on the new ones to avoid this problem in the future. BIG +++++ to the factory tool. Makes x-threading basically impossible, good grip to hand tighten/loosen, easy to use with supplied 10mm key or hex driver on a wratchet. I hope i'm as pleasantly surprised by my first valve adjustment.... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1367774424.jpg |
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