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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Denver
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G50 and kennedy clutch not fully disengaging. Ideas?

Slave was replaced and shifting it into gear when stopped was still hard. I bled the hell out of it with a Motiv bleeder, and it didn't help. When the car is on jackstands, i can push the clutch in shift into 1st, and the rear axle starts spinning even with the clutch in.

When I took the old slave out, the tip of the shaft had a steel sharp bit at the end - like a steel nipple or something. So, I'm not sure if maybe the shaft wore it's way into the fork or not. The throwout bearing is whisper quiet, and the tranny was fully rebuilt back in the 90s around 100k miles - 200k on it right now.

In searching, it seems bleeding, maybe a pedal adjustment, or fluid on the disk are common causes. I don't really know how fluid on the disk could be a cause, but I'd be curious to know if a leaky slave could somehow get fluid onto the disk.

Any other ideas?

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88 Carrera - Venetian Blue
2002 Audi S4 Avant (KIA)
Old 05-12-2013, 07:40 AM
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Location: SC - (Aiken in the 'other' SC)
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What is the prior history of the clutch? Is it a fresh install or did it "go bad" after being in for a while?

Measuring the throw of the throwout fork will give you an idea of how the hydraulic linkage is working. Measure the distance the master is moving against the movement of the slave where it pushes the fork. The difference in cylinder sizes will be the multiplier. That will tell you if it is close to right. (This method works on any hydraulic system)

A problem with the disk can cause the same type of lack of disengagement. A bent disk or a damaged facing will keep some level of engagement and will destroy a gearbox in short order.
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Old 05-12-2013, 08:36 AM
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KEP forgot to machine reliefs for the bolts on the pressure plate that I bought from them.
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Dean
911 SC turbo, 3.0L 930 motor, G50, 930 brakes, DTA EFI, 352 RWHP DynoDynamic dyno,
Old 05-12-2013, 05:57 PM
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I just dropped my engine/trans yesterday because of a dragging clutch 993 with 110000 mi. Similar symptoms. I found the splines on the input shaft rusty ,throwout sleeve dry and the disc slightly oiled with a few drops of oil hanging off the rear main seal.
Clutch disc is almost worn out so it was overdue.
I assume from your post the clutch has 100k on it and was likely replaced with the trans at 100 in the 90,s .Your splines are likely rustier and stickier than mine as mine is a 95.
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Old 05-12-2013, 06:04 PM
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So, I checked my receipts. The tranny was rebuilt back in the 90s, but I guess the clutch went in back in 2004 at 150k miles when the top-end was done. I don't recall this being an issue when i bought the car earlier this year, but that might have been me just getting familiar with the car. I know when I started driving it more in the city, and when the brake fluid issues started to crop up, that's when i really started to notice it. But fixed the slave (was the prior issue), and still can't seem to get the clutch to fully disengage. I can apply pressure to the shifter after everything is warmed up, and the minute I shut the car off is when it finally slips into gear easily.

I got an appt tomorrow with my mechanic. 'Preciate the input, but clutches and tranny issues are beyond my level of expertise.
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88 Carrera - Venetian Blue
2002 Audi S4 Avant (KIA)
Old 05-13-2013, 07:13 AM
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Just as an update, had the shop pull the motor and turns out it was some kind of racing disk that wasn't a full coverage type like the OE sachs. Splines were dry and a bit rusty, as well. Friction disk was pretty worn, but they are pretty sure the dry splines were the cause of the clutch problem. Now, the clutch effort is about half of what it used to be after they brushed the splines. And, they put in a sachs friction disk as the Kennedy plate looked fine. Resurfaced things, a few seals, and I'm back in business.

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2002 Audi S4 Avant (KIA)
Old 05-30-2013, 10:21 AM
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