Ignition Wires

[john walker's workshop]

i get the crimp on wire ends with the threaded tip (for the plug connector end of the wire) from porsche, mercedes, or wurth. being it's sunday, i can't get the part #. all three suppliers have different numbers. i'll look tomorrow. remind me if necc. the 1K cap ends can be had thru worldpac. you just have to work with an intelligent sales person to find obscure stuff like this. that 18yo kid ain't gonna find it. resistors are used in plug wires to make the impulse work harder to force it's way to ground (at the plug), thereby making it stronger. there's some electrical theory that supports this.

[Early_S_Man]

Actually, the resistance is spark plug leads, rotors, and even the plugs themselves has nothing to do with the operation of an internal combustion engine, or the ignition system. It is there to increase the RC time constant of the electrical load circuit on the coil to lower the RFI frequency of the spark pulses. To stop making interference that can be heard in the high-dollar audio systems, in other words!!!

Super, you don't need additional resistance at the distributor end connectors, but if you want a 1K Ohm right-angle connector that will screw directly onto bulk 7 mm wire-cored cables, a Bosch 0.358.250.014 connector from BMW Bavaria's and 5,6,7-series cars of the '70s will work just fine.

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

[Doug Zielke]

Quote:
resistors are used in plug wires to make the impulse work harder to force it's way to ground (at the plug), thereby making it stronger. There's some electrical theory that supports this.

There is *no* "electrical theory to support this".

The resistor in plug wires, connectors, and the plugs themselves is there to suppress electromagnetic interference. By changing the impedance of the circuit, and thereby the frequency of the RF radiation, things like radios and ECU's are protected from interference. The braided wire covering of OEM Porsche ignition wiring is also an attempt to control spurious RF by taking it to ground.




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Doug
'81 SC Coupe
Canada West Region PCA

[This message has been edited by Doug Zielke (edited 03-11-2001).]

[Superman]

Warren has infinite patience it seems. I am one of those unfortunate souls that would much rather "grok" something than just believe it. I care little about radio interference, except that I've heard of a danger of messing with demolition equipment, though this may be a wives tale. I have also heard of RFI damaging CDI systems.

Now, I wonder if this is a 'radiation' thing where the wires act like antannae, spitting a static signal, or if the problem is in the electrical circuit.

I am not reinstalling the stainless steel sock, which may be serving the purpose of grouding radiated energy. Okay, I think I'm just gonna hafta have some faith here. Thanks for your patience, Warren. I'm hoping John Walker will come up with a source for the screw ends. I'll be impressed and happy.

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'83 SC

[jabb]

Local Speed shop carries 7 7.5 and 8 mm
wire. Yellow Accel wire I believe the 7 & 8 mm are Solid core and can be purchased by the foot. Anyone use this wire before ??


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• Joe A.
• 84 911 Targa
• 75 914/6 3.0

[john walker's workshop]

well i guess i stand corrected on the resistor thing. i related to watching a high tension spark jump a gap, and as the gap was increased, the spark got fatter and nastier sounding. vw's had air gap connectors. is an air gap not resistance? not having grown up repairing radios, i may have some foggy areas when it comes to electronics. the bosch # for the 1K dist cap ends is 0356200006. the mercedes # for the crimp on plug connector ends is 000.159.1438. so far the local porsche guys are still looking for their #.

[Superman]

This is awesome. Thanks John Walker, I assume. I may be away from internet access after business today, but I'll be driving though Metropolis tomorrow afternoon, and so can pick up parts. I'm very excited. In a good way.

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'83 SC

[Superman]

The Porsche dealership in Tacoma does not show the screw connectors as available separately. The Mercedes dealership does have these connectors though, and my favorite parts guy here in town was able to use the part numbers to order what I need. I should know by 5:00 tinight. I am hopeful. Will keep you posted, but I'll likely be away from Internet 'til tomorrow sometime.

Hey, a very appreciative "thank you" goes to John Walker's Workshop.

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'83 SC

[Early_S_Man]

Just to update for any that plan this wire replacement ... the crimp-on ends are pn 911.609.310.00 from the Dec. '95 edition of the Parts and Technical Reference Catalog!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa
1992 Dodge Dakota 5.2 4X4 parts hauler

[lucky77]

Warren...you're on it. I took your advice, early 911 wires are working just fine

Thanks!

Matt
77 911 S Targa

[MDrive]

For what it is worth, I bought an OE set of Beru wires, already assembled for my 86 Carrera for $189.00. They will be installed this weekend but they look fantastic and seem to be bulletproof construction. Let me know if you are interested in where I got them. I think this is the cheapest I found for OE so far.

Mike
86 Carrera Coupe

[Early_S_Man]

pwd72s ... here it is ...

[Superman]

Okay, here's a thread about ignition wires that gets into the specifics about those funky screw tip on the ends of the wires that screws into the Beru connectors. John Walker says it would be hard to solder them on, but he also says that the small crimp is what physically holds them on. Well, I don't like twisting wires when this is going to put a twisting motion onto the conductors. So, I am wondering how hard soldering would be.

Whaddya think?

[RoninLB]

I'm w/Super on this one............Ron

[Early_S_Man]

Even the factory crimp on those little screw ends can pull off after a few years of heat and vibration! I have seen it happen!

My suggeastion is to drill the end of the new brass screw connector with a #49 carbide circuit board drill bit ... and solder the wire on with high quality copper-bearing solder from Ersin or 3% silver-bearing solder from Kester! You can crimp it for extra stability or ease in soldering, but it probably isn't necessary for long-term reliability.

And, for any wondering why not use just the ordinary 60/40 or 63/37 lead-tin solders ... the copper and silver-bearing solders are considerably stronger than plain lead-tin solder, and every bit of strength is important in harsh underhood conditions on your 911!

[RoninLB]

Warren.........perfect..thanks..................Ro n

[Porsche_monkey]

Superman: Did you go ahead with this? Any suggestions?

I'm sitting here with my old wires dis-assembled and some 7mm aftermarket wire. Just looking for advice before I proceed...

[Early_S_Man]

Just for future reference ... here is an excellent Beru document on ignition system connections that details the parts, tools, and installation procedure for the M3 threaded connector:

http://www.beru.com/download/produkte/TI05_e.pdf

Also, the correct rubber air seal for 911 Beru connectors is VW 111.905.449, and the superceded pn 111.905.449A part sold in the 914 catalog section WILL NOT FIT CORRECTLY!!! The correct, older seal is only available from aftermarket VW suppliers for air-cooled engines, such as CB Performance.

[Bones]

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[450knotOffice]

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