Yet another door stay repair question.

[CallawayTurbo]

I got the door fix kit and I'm not 100 percent certain of how the plates go.
I assume that plate 'c' goes on the outside of the door as pictured and
plate 'b' is on the inside. Some of the explanations on other threads that
I've read have lead me to believe that somehow plate 'c' gets sandwiched
into the door somehow.

[kshafer1]

Not on the outside like you have it. Hope this link helps.

Pelican Technical Article: Door Stay Replacement and Reinforcement - 911 (1965-89) - 930 Turbo (1975-89)

[CallawayTurbo]

Ok, that's from 101 Projects (have that) and it doesn't help.

Here's a picture from the inside. You can see the metal that's broken off.
Am I seriously suppose to sandwich a plate between those two pieces of sheet
metal inside the door? The broken piece and the outer piece that's not.
Doesn't seem like a good design.

[kshafer1]

The piece missing would need to be fabricated in order to do a successful repair. When I did both of my doors the inner metal was still present but mangled. The repair was to use the two pieces of new metal to sandwich the mangled metal which provided enough strength to support the new door stay. Sorry that link didn't help. Couldn't tell that the metal inside was broken.

[theiceman]

its actually a great design .. the problem is you ( or the po ) let it go waaaay to long before repairing it. I think now you are looking at a new door..

.. the only real hope you have now is to fab up an even bigger plate that will cover that whole area with a hole in it to put your other piece on.

i do think you are doing it wrong though , one piece goes inside the door after you take the panel off .. the last pic you took .. the other piece goes between the inner and outer skin from the outside .. make sure you atach a piece of fishing line to it first in case you drop it between the skins..

this is what it looks like before and after the repair..

[theiceman]

[theiceman]

the plate you fab up may have to have a bend in it ( blue ) to match the door contour.
I do NOT recomend welding it but just sandwich it as the original design suggests.
it would be very hard to tack inside the door and you cant move it after and may have to repaint. also weld may not allow everything to sit sandwiched or flat.

[CallawayTurbo]

Ok ... I think I see it ...
So the one plate would fit up against the still remaining "outer" layer of sheet metal on the inside and the other plate fit up against the mostly missing other piece of sheet metal to form the sandwich.

It didn't look to me that the the one piece could slide in between the two layers of sheet metal but evidently so.

Now you said not to weld a repair piece of metal, how would you secure it then?
Just count on the tension of the two plates?

(btw, thanks for the excellent graphic and pictures).

[AC78]

You could try sandwiching the sheet metal but it looks pretty far gone to me. For the smaller plate remember to tie some string around it because if you drop it in that small space you will never get it back. It doesn't look like it will fit in that hole but it will, you just need to be patient with it. This is an excellent upgrade. I just finished doing mine and it worked very well

[CallawayTurbo]

I'm actually having the car re-sprayed in a few months so its a temporary repair till then.
It looks like someone could have welded a repair piece over what's show in the picture.

You know, one question comes to mind,
WHY is there a space in between those two pieces of sheet metal to sandwhich the plate in the first place? Seems like an odd design.

[fintstone]

Try this link with add'l pix:
Door Stay repair - now can't close door

[CallawayTurbo]

Ok, its "good enough fixed" for now.

The biggest issue I see is that the door stay mechanism requires a ridiculous amount of force to move.
This is clearly why the sheet metal breaks. I actually had to open up the stay and trim the rubber pieces that apply tension to the stay so that the stay would open and close without damaging the door again. That's a pretty important aspect of the repair IMHO.

[MConn]

Originally Posted by CallawayTurbo

Ok, its "good enough fixed" for now.

The biggest issue I see is that the door stay mechanism requires a ridiculous amount of force to move.
IMHO.

I replaced the door stays on my 87 Targa with out-of-the-box PP stays and I cringe when I open and close the doors. So, when I replaced them on the 88 coupe, I modified them first. The new stays from PP have 2 humps on the stay arm, but the original (I think) stay that I removed did not have these humps. I think the humps measured 0.224". I removed a total of 0.010" from the first hump, and 0.005" from the second hump. This gives me a light resistance on the first hump when opening the door, and higher resistance to keep the door from bottoming out with door fully open.

EDIT - I got the values backwards on the picture, 0.005" should be next to the nylon stop.



The down side to this, is that I removed the zinc plating from the stay arm.

Mike

[jkevinc]

+1 MCon

[AC78]

Yup I put my new door stay straight on the grinder and ground those lumps almost flat (to match my old door stay). It's still a bit stiff but otherwise a smooth action.

[Algernon]

When I did that job, I just hammered it a little to lower the 'bump' heights. I didn't want to remove the plating, and it worked fine!
Still had noticeable stay positions, but no longer 'cringe-worthy'.
Algernon