83 911 RoW Control Box / Computer
 

Hi

Anyone have any documentation on a control box/computer associated with a '83 911 imported in 1985 looking like the pictures posted?

Not sure if the box was original or not (dont think it was because of the text).

You cannot see it in the pictures but on the side that shows GAORE it also shows "SCI-10" and a copyright "1984". Googled that couldnt find any references to that.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1368838730.jpghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1368838936.jpg

Thanks all!

loks like an adjustable frequency valve controller. Most likely a attempt to fix bad running engines. Are there other sensors on the engine? I see 7 pins on the board but no plug on the box, hummmm no idea. Could be a prototype

'83 RoW SC would not have had a frequency valve or any controller like that stock

Gary,
The more you post about your car the more it appears to be heavily modified from the original Euro CSI configuration.
Did the car come from California? It's like they tried to make it smog compliant by installing a bunch of US style controls.

Mi '83 SC does not have anything like that. Where in the car did you find it?

Dennis: I imported it into Cali in '85 from Germany. The modifications were done by South Coast Compliance(SCC), in Orange County, who did a lot of Euro import mods to CA standards at the time:Porsche, MBenz, Ferrari's etc. That company no longer exists and I am not sure what they took out or put in. There must be several Pcars around still that went through SCC.

Paco: The box is normally located under the driver's seat.

James Brown: The 7-pin plug to the box is laying on the car's floor during the photo-op.

Little work has been done in the engine compartment since acquisition until this year under the guidance of this forum.

I guess I need to:
1) take an inventory of what components I have and match them and their connections to the parts, vacuum and electrical diagrams. Although, when I reconnected the vacuum lines I tried to insure I had the lines correct, therefore, most of the components are there.

2) study what a frequency valve is and try to determine what might have been bypassed when the original mods were done.

Any other ideas would be appreciated.

Gary

Frequency valve controller........
 

Gary,

That device was used to control the pressure relief valve connected in tandem in your WUR. If the device is still working it would be OK to use but once it stopped operating and the valve is at 'open position', it would be a big problem.

A very simple solution to your problem is to eliminate this device and run the car as a Euro spec car. You have already the WUR-089. You spoke to Warren O. and he had the same problem before like yours. He already fixed it. Warren's car drove more than 400 miles on a single full tank from Ohio to Hershey!!!!! While I had to refill my '06 Subaru Impreza Sport with 1/8 tank left at Harrisburg. Warren's car is a good example of a well tuned CIS engine and I put my hat off for his accomplishment.

Tony

Thanks Tony,

I agree, Warren's a great example of getting his RoW in top shape. He said he gets 25mpg highway! Yesterday, he also suggested the box should be eliminated to get the car back to original Euro production status.

If all the box does is control the pressure relief valve, which as you know has now been removed from my car, then yes it performs no useful function. Should I not be concerned with the other five wires going to/from this box?

Gary

Where do the 5 wires go to/from?

Over thinking the solution.......
 

Gary,

You are over analyzing the problem/s. Get rid of this device and since you are no longer required to use it as needed for this imported car to be 'federalized' to meet the standard emission requirement, run the engine as a Euro car. You don't have to go that far and look for a solution. Warren has done it with excellent results. I'm interested to know the wiring connections for this box. Could you document the wiring connections from the 'box' to where these terminals go?

Set the engine similar to what Warren did and start from there. First, make the car start and idle. Then we'll figure out the fine tuning aspect later on. You should be able to get this engine run great pretty soon.

Tony

Yes, where do the wires go?

I will research that and report back.

Warren did not have the box and his pressure relief valve was not connected electronically. The problem I have is that after starting the car it gradually belches large amouts of grey smoke.

I've talked to Tony offline today and he has suggested runing a couple tests, dealing with RPM at startup and over time. These tests may confirm that my WUR is not functioning correctly after startup. System pressure=4.75 bar, cold pressure = .85bar, warm pressure (after 6-7 minutes) = .85 bar.

I will report back.

Thanks

Wur-089
 

Gary,

Send the WUR back and will test one before shipping it to you to confirm that the bi-metallic spring is working accordingly. The engine is running so you are ahead of the game. Don't forget to check for sources of air/vacuum leak that could affect the fuel mixture. Keep running the engine much longer to drive off the moisture inside the muffler. That light grey color smoke coming out is due to moisture deposited in exhaust system and would require some heat to evaporate it.

Tony

Gary,
Do you have 12 volts at the connector for your WUR when the ignition is in the run position?
Looks like no change in your fuel pressure after time, so the first check is for voltage to heat the bi-metallic strip.
(Before swapping out the WUR)
Sending you a PM.

Dennis

Yes, at the WUR or AAR (either or neither connected), with iginition and pump on: 11.28V.

It's like they tried to make it smog compliant by installing a bunch of US style controls.http://www.gqtt.info/5b.jpg

Gary,

I'm available if you want to talk through some of these issues. Call me.

Warren