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Willing to learn how.
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Opinions On Buying a '76 911
Ok, what's everyone's opinion on buying a '76 911 with just under 60k on the car? I've read the '77 and up are better and have fix some issues with the previous motor, but this car is the " little lady that drove it occasionally".
To boot, this would be my first 911. Thank You, T.J. I had mistakenly posted this on the engine rebuild forum a few weeks ago. Come to find out that the car is a true ROW or euro car. Is that a desirable thing? Also, I'm I wrong to think that I can strip the car of it's emissions crap since my state no longer checks for emissions? |
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MBruns for President
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Check for rust - and strip away
BTW a later 3.6 makes the middies even more fun... ![]()
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Current Whip: - 2003 996 Twin Turbo - 39K miles - Lapis Blue/Grey Past: 1974 IROC (3.6) , 1987 Cabriolet (3.4) , 1990 C2 Targa, 1989 S2 |
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I have a 76. There should be NO rust, the bodies that year were dipped. So, if there is rust it may mean it was damaged. There should be no emissions, I put SSI heat exchangers and M&K exhaust.
I dumped the 2.7l for a 3.0L. Post some more info and what price they are asking.
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John 76' 911s " The Only Easy Day Was Yesterday"http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...leys/pint1.gif |
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grammaire
Depends..... on a few key factors. AC? (bad) Smog pump? (also bad) regulations in your state? (allow you to remove smog...) 5 blade fan?(again bad). Engine work done - such as timecerts in cases (good).
In a nutshell the 2.7's can be fun cars - not so much fast as quick, but they do not cope well with heat, so aforementioned factors can add up to expensive repairs. My advice to a first time owner is, unless you're able to do reasonably extensive work yourself, buy an SC. That said, have a reputable shop give it a good look, and get ready to spend. -C
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Bone stock 1974 911S Targa. 1972 914/4 Race Car Last edited by Charles Freeborn; 06-04-2013 at 08:33 PM.. |
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Join Date: Feb 2006
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easy answer dont do it...
longer answer. you need to verify engine work. btw 78 and newer..
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1976 Yamaha XS360 ( Beats Walkin') 1978 911 SC Targa ( Yamaha Support Vehicle ) 2006 Audi A4 2.0T (Porsche Support Vehicle ) 2014 Audi A4 2.0T Technik (Audi Support Vehicle) Last edited by theiceman; 06-06-2013 at 06:00 PM.. |
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1976 carrera
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 127
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I drive a 76 with 2.7 engine,
If a car had all upgrades ( front oil radiator, 11b fan, brakes booster, and engine upgrades) it will be a nice car to drive, |
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IMHO, on all cars this "old" it's all about condition. I would have no qualms at all about buying a well-maintained mid-year with a 2.7. Heck, I did that 20 years ago and still own the car. No rust, either.
I well-maintained '74-'77 911 would be a better buy than a newer car with issues IMO.
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Mike 1976 Euro 911 3.2 w/10.3 compression & SSIs 22/29 torsions, 22/22 adjustable sways, Carrera brakes |
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Functionista
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: CO
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The "911s built after 1975 have no rust" assertion is a joke. IROC is correct..... it's condition, condition, and of course, condition.
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Jeff 74 911, #3 I do not disbelieve in anything. I start from the premise that everything is true until proved false. Everything is possible. |
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This question comes up often as the 2.7 motor seem to get a great deal of flack for certain issues. Yes the 5 blade fan, head stud issue, and oil cooler can be problems done let them scare you off. Every era of 911's has its fair share of issues. the SC/Carrera era is often regarded as the most bullet proof time but don't be fooled these cars still have issues. I would try and get an SC or Carrera for not only the reputation but the power. However if the 2.7 is in good shape, had the right work done, and 911's are hard to find in your area it may very well be a good purchase. Keep in mind that no matter what car you buy you will have to do work to it (unless you are one of those people with an unlimited budget...). The Galvanization is nice but rust can still be an issue on these cars. I have found that although the tub its self is galvanized things like the bolts, muffler, engine parts and other small metal bits can be seriously plagued by rust on these cars. So keep a watchful eye on these parts when looking for rust.
When it comes to issues these cars are a trade off. the early cars had carbs which are lets be honest carbs. Or if you are lucky it had MFI which can cost you a small fortune just to get parts for. You will trade that for a more complex and expensive to fix CIS system in the later years. The later years will also give you galvanization to protect the tub. Then you will eventually trade that for a complicated early 80s computer based injection system and far more complicated electronics. The cost of the individual parts may be less but you now have more sensors to deal with and more little nuance issues. You will also get an AC that teases you by barely working in its stock form. On the other side you will get a ton of power, a big wheel base, and a car that can keep up with and out run many modern cars. You will then run into a price wall as you get in to the more recent cars. Beautiful and mechanically elegant they are difficult if not impossible to work on at home. You drive them, a shop fixes them. As you can see every era of 911 has its issues its a mater of which ones you want to deal with/have the skill set to handle. The big message here is that a well sorted car is a well sorted car so do your reading and research (as you have been) before making any decision. Just a word on buying cars. At some point just buy one. I have seen many people spend years looking for "that perfect car" and never finding it. The fact is that almost every 911 is going to need something to get it to the condition you want. Dont lament over little things they just dont matter and can always be fixed. I also would not waist time turning down a great car simply because it is not the color you want. Porsche offered a lot of color options and with custom orders floating around out there as well as repaints and interior reupholsters the options are endless and you may have a hard time finding what you had in mind. A mechanically good car with a straight chassis will be far more worth it to you in the long run than a car of your favorite color. You will never regret any Porsche you buy, only the ones you don't... Regards Dave
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'78 911SC Targa (Back In Action!) '00 996 Carrera (New kid on the block) '87 944 (college DD - SOLD) '88 924s (high school DD - Gone to a better home) |
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Quote:
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Kurt |
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AutoBahned
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yes, check for rust
find out if it ever had thermal reactors on it find out if the odo is correct what is the price? |
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Willing to learn how.
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Thank you all for taking time to respond. Time to ***** or get off the pot, so to speak. Plus my wife is tired of hearing me go on about this car. I guess I like it because it's unmolested, stock down to the radio and color.... yellow.... I will take the six hour round trip to put my eyes on it and make that decision. $16k sound like a decent price for a euro '76? Thanks again! -T.J.
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Ontario Canada
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i think that is high for a 74-77 but if the work has been done and i dont know ur market.
personally i like the wider body sc / carrera
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1976 Yamaha XS360 ( Beats Walkin') 1978 911 SC Targa ( Yamaha Support Vehicle ) 2006 Audi A4 2.0T (Porsche Support Vehicle ) 2014 Audi A4 2.0T Technik (Audi Support Vehicle) |
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If you are in south FL you have no issue finding older 911's I see many go up for sale in that area often. 16 is a bit high but the market is booming right now as the 356 market softens. It seems that many of those who grew up in the 356 days are getting to old to drive them or simply have gone to a better place. The guy who grew up with pinups of a 930 on their wall are coming to the age of buying sports cars and thus the market for that era cars is booming. If it is listed for 16 I would offer 10 and try and get him to maybe 13 if, as stated, all the work has been done and the car is in good order. If you are going to take the trip but dont intend on buying the car on the trip take lots of pics and post them. You will get a much better response from people here after they see the car. Im not in the area otherwise I would join, but see if a local pelican is willing to go for the ride and take a look at the car with you. Not only will you have company for the long drive but you may get some valuable onsite advise. I have helped a few pelicans go look at cars now and its always a good time.
Regards Dave
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'78 911SC Targa (Back In Action!) '00 996 Carrera (New kid on the block) '87 944 (college DD - SOLD) '88 924s (high school DD - Gone to a better home) |
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My opinion, if the car is rust free, paint and interior in good shape, all original, and only 60k miles, I would buy it. Maybe there is some wiggle room with the price.
I could be wrong but I thought the euro models didn't have thermo reactors and the 5 blade fan. I just watched a really nice mid year on ebay go for something like $31k. These cars aren't getting any cheaper including the dreaded mid year.
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Chris '75 911s Targa |
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Location: Montréal, Canada
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Remember this quote : ''Buy the latest you can afford''. I say : '' Buy the latest you can afford, but not a liquid cooled one''.
Seriously, the 2,7 engine is known for being the less reliable of all air cooled 911. Cheers
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1985 911 Targa (sold) 2001 996 Twin Turbo (sold) 2001 996 C4 |
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My 2.7 has all the current updates and runs like a dream! CIS is working beautifully. Every Porsche has its quirks. You either live with them or you spend the time (and money) to fix it. That is the joy of Porsche!! If you like it and seems trouble free have a PPI and if it does well there then buy it and enjoy it.
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'77 Porsche 911S |
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AutoBahned
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too much - offer 11k; walk away
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