Radar Detector Hi Volt - sign of problems?
 

I installed hard wired Escort radar detector and it shuts down showing "Hi Volt" warning after running for about 15 min.

Is there a recommended fix?

Is this a sign of alternator problems?

Could be a sign that the voltage regulator is letting the voltage get too high. Worth a check..

JR

Does the detector have a built in volt meter you can monitor your voltage?
If not get one.

When in doubt, check the battery terminals......if it shows >14volts at 2500 rpms there is an issue. If less then it's the Escort.

What model escort? QI45? perhaps? There is a voltmeter setting on that one and most of them. Lets you read volts.

I had the exact same problem when I first used my escort in my recently purchased 911. Got some advice here on this forum to check for voltage spikes as others on this thread have indicated. Turns out that the voltage regulator was going bad and the culprit. I replaced it with a new one from pelican and problem solved. Steady as a rock now. Get one of those digital voltage meters that plug into the cigarette lighter socket and you will see what is going on with yours. I got mine from amazon. (Don't think Wayne sells them here on PP.) Replace the VR immediately if you see spiking since you can really fry your wiring and battery if left untreated. The only symptom I had was the hi volt warning from my escort.

Hey Creve, exactly! what year is your 911? Did you have to disassemble the alternator to get to the VR.

Voltage spikes will also show in the tach bouncing, can boil battery cells and kill electronics. Just sayin.....old P-cars need a volt meter and a battery charger.

My experience.....they are used on a regular basis and likely one of the most popular tool on WTF electric issues threads....

I had a 3.2 where the lights went brighter, then lost low beam...when I got home the battery was boiling, and the alt was putting out around 17v.
I removed the alternator and inspected the reg, there was a dry solder joint, re-soldered, replaced lights and battery and is now all good..
A volt meter is a good thing, check the output, it is worth the effort!

I have heard that some Japanese cars use a 14.65V charging system.
This to ensure quick recharge after starting.
If your alt or regulator has been changed recently...you might want to check the output of the system....particularly just after starting.
Bob

Mine is an 86 3.2 coupe. I had no other symptoms as others have mentioned, but you might see other tell tale signs as mentioned. Yes, the VR on my 86 is behind the alternator so you have to take the alt out to get to the VR. Simple to replace the VR once you get the fan off and the alt out. Or just take it in to your trusted porsche mechanic. Good luck!

The Cigarette lighter solution is ok, but in my mind, unsightly. I went to my local FLAPS and bought a small gauge and installed it. It is connected to one of the switched wires that powers my radio.

My install looks like this:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275866232.jpg

I am betting you regulator is toast .........BTDT

Am I the only one driving Guards red without a radar detector? With all my recent voltage issue, I think I need a volt meter with a radar detector attached to it.

My research says that low voltage is typically a alternator issue and high voltage is the VR.

So what we are saying here is that the radar Detector is a multi-function tool?

I was annoyed at first when my escort kept chirping and displaying hi volt. But it's a life saver when you realize that it's telling you to save your battery & electronics by checking for a bad VR. So I guess that yes those guys at escort are smart and gave you a multi function tool as well. :)

Mine certainly warned me of the impending doom. Works like a charm,..as long as it's reading correctly,...check your battery, at minimum.

Something is certainly up within your charging system,..for sure!

Best!

Doyle

You know what .. I forgot to state that the Hi Volt only happens after running for about 20 minutes.

Is this still a symptom of the VR?

Time has little to do with it (other than an indication of possible heat influence)......in the end: doesn't matter.

I'd have that alternator checked FIRST. My problem ended up being the original, 1989, alternator (imagine that? After 22 years of service). THAT work session included (in addition) a brand new valeo regulator,..whether she needed it or not. The regulator was working, yet of the same age. Whatza guy to do,......? All fresh parts.

I'd get on this quickly, as you don't want that voltage spike to damage your DME.

Best,

Doyle

Just went through this myself recently. You'll need to pull the alternator to get to the VR anyways...I'd take everything out as a unit and have it tested by a pro. Yes, the VR is very easy to replace. But what if you replace the VR and then the alternator itself decides to take a dump in the next 1K-5K miles?

I had my entire original unit rebuilt. It lasted for 25 years. The guy replaced every single component, and I still paid about the same as I would have for a questionable reman unit. And I got to clean up the fan, housing and some other stuff. It was worth it.

Also, dshepp806 is spot on...you let these issues go on long enough, and it can blossom into a more expensive PITA.