Rusty Door - what is the best way to repair?
 

The lower section of my drivers door is rusted out. It happened a long time ago and was repaired badly at some time or other. After removing 1/4"+ of filler I got to the rusted metal and only the bottom few inches seem compromised.

A few places sell just the lower 6" of the door skin for a few bucks or the whole thing for quite a bit more. So my question to those who have dealt with this repair before is as follows: Do I just cut out and replace the metal that has rusted through or should I go for a virgin skin. My fear is that if whoever repaired the door before warped it when they brazed the rusty spots then the whole thing might be out of whack and I would just be chasing high and low spots. I have yet to have time to take the entire door down to metal so I don't know if there is more filler hiding elsewhere. But the door does shut well so I believe it to be the right shape.

Basically is just patching it asking for trouble or am I just worrying too much?

Or do I just shell out 500+ for a non-rusty door of some vintage that may or may not match and may or may not have filler.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369948120.jpg

There are good used doors out there for under $300 if you search. They should all fit from '69 to '89.
Ask yourself if the time and money for the repair is equal to the value of a good used door.
Once you cut into it you may find a lot more rust.
Get a galvanized door from '78 up from out west and you should be good to go.

I agree with timmy2.

Assuming you are in for a total repaint anyways, the cost to partially or totally re-skin the door has got to be prohibitive vs. buying a real nice door(s).

I'll keep looking then I guess. Lower 6" is $44. Whole skin is $300. Best price I found on a door so far is $550 for an SC door. Paint is required for any of those options.

The labor is all mine, costs just beer and patience.

If the skin is like any other that I have replaced...it's just a matter of drawing a straight line accross the door or using the new skin to do it...and cutting carefully so that the new piece will end up butt welded to the main upper part of the door.
The lower part of the skin is sort of a wrap around and crimped piece.
Because the wrap part is not welded...make sure you prime or paint protect the inside of the crimp...and the shell part it crimps to.
Use very low heat...stitch it (weld a 1/2 inch...leave an inch...do another 1/2")
Then go back and stitch the unwelded areas.
Should turn out fine if you are careful.
Bob

Porsce Left Front Fender *New*
contact these guys at Rothsport racing, there's a guy next door that sells used parts.
Or,
just replace the lower section if you have the skills. I'd be concerned about the inner piece at the seam being rotten...
Here's a good deal on a full skin:
65-89 Porsche 911/912 right door skin

Welding sheet metal is a skill that is acquired...But IF you want to go ahead and just replace the lower skin, it works best if you use this tool. http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/panel-crimper-478-p-12676.aspx

With it you can make a continuous crimp on the patch piece so that it fits under the old skin...With a MIG -> 'small' spot welds and as mentioned go slowly so as not to warp the skin.... Weld a little and then wait for it to cool down....

Personally I would look for a complete door.The link that timmy2 just put up for a new full skin for $50. could make me change my mind...

If you purchase the skin then use 3m's 3M Panel Bonding Adhesive 08115 - The only way to fly - It's a great product...SEM make it also but personally I would pay the few $$$ more for 3m's..

Skill is definitely required...
I replaced the bottom inside and outside 10 inches of both the doors on my '69 olds 442. (along with the lower fenders and almost complete QP's..)
Not a job I want to do ever again...(That's why the concern of what lies beneath...)
I used a tool from eastwood to peel the lip and crimp it. worked well.

If you chose not to buy a door, make a precise template of the curve and make the patch. Take your time it will turn out nice. Expect to spend more time in the inner area than the outer because the edge shows...

Thanks for all the responces. I have been trying to source out a used door. I would have gone to the parts heaven swap meet but I was chasing motorcycles all weekend. I had thought about using the crimper but I picked these up instead: Butt Weld Clamps Kit

I will be tig welding the joint if I go that route. So proper gap, tungsten and filler rod is all important.

And I agree that the 3M stuff is good albeit expensive. Maybe I will give a shot to repairing the lower section and keep an eye out for a good complete door.

If you dont have e to be original go with C/F or fiberglass .They will never rust no more....!

Only if your have side impact bars.

+1...TIG is a better way to go.

Yes True, I just assume we all know that..

I have seen too many cars with skin removed or full glass doors and no side impact bars attached to the roll cage as it make it impractical for street use.

Is true....a race car is almost unusable for the street..yet we all aspire to them

I gutted my 944 doors and had a full roll cage. I drove that on the street for years. Great to make sure I never drove intoxicated, I couldn't get into the damn thing if I was!

This car will remain a sporty but fun weekend bomber. No gutted doors but maybe RS style door panels.

I will update once I have made a decision on which way to go. I have a few offers on doors as well.

make sure , if you replace the piece in a small section (which I would advise) that wherever you make the cuts, you can get back there with a dolly so you can hammer and dolly your welds.

Door patching is tough with to much heat and very easy to warp the door.

Make a tack every 2-3 inches, STOP between each weld and hammer that tack.
If you do this, its just enough time for the panel to cool down, then do the next weld, then hammer it.

You can just move at that pace for the whole job, and do it all in one session provided you stop between each tack and hammer it flat.

make the space between tacks 50% each time you go around the piece.
Eventually its all welded up with no warping.

Tig creates more heat than mig, but tig welds are easier to hammer flat.

I would just cut it out and make a piece to fit...
Restoration-design.com may have a lower door skin...or maybe even just a corner...not sure.

Grind some paint away from the whole door bottom...see how far it goes.

RIch

wrong door side