Clutch Adjustment 911 SC What am I doing wrong
 

I tried to adjust the clutch today and I cannot get any gap at the clutch helper spring adjustment screw. When I started this there was a small gap but less than the spec. I adjusted it to spec with the clutch cable loose then set the pre load per the Bentley manual. With the correct pre load the clutch did not fully disengage even with the clutch cable adjustment max out at the trans mission. I had plenty of adjustment room at the clutch clevis so I took out the slack there and went back to re set the preload and adjust at the rear. Now I cannot get any gap at the clutch pre load adjustment screw.

Car drives fine. U have adjusted the cable so the engagement point is in the top 1/3 of travel. No clutch slippage that I can tell. 3K rpm in 2nd gear stepped on the brake with foot to the floor and car stopped dead and stalled so I don't think the clutch is worn to the point of replacement.

Any ideas?

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Your car still has its original clutch cable, and it might be binding. That said, by the angle of the release fork arms, the car probably also needs a clutch, pedal assembly repairs, etc.

If/when you order a replacement cable, be sure to specify o.e.; there are after market look-a-likes out there that are junk.

Thanks peter I guess it could need a clutch. There are only 40K on this lutch and a lot of them were highway, but could be. Just keep driving as is

Where are you located?

Get a helper and measure how much movement there is with pedal depressed. Should be 25mm IIRC. Adjust clutch stop on floorboard to get right travel. See tech info article.

+1 on helper to get the proper readings of 25.00 MM (+/- 0.50MM) difference between clutch pedal at rest and depressed. Just taking up the slack may have over tightened the cable resulting in an inproper gap.

Bethesda MD

Have ~26MM of travel as it is now, What is confusing the heck out of me is how a started with a gap at the helper spring adjustment granted smaller than the 1mm spec. Then I end up with no gap at all even with the clutch cable disconnected at both ends. Seems like something internal to the bellhousing changed during this process . . .

Ah, bit too far to stop by :)

As mentioned, get a helper to to insure pedal is all the way up as you get the first reading then pressed down to get the the 2nd reading.


Josle the clutch arm to make sure it is not binding, your climate I assume throws a lot of moisture in the area, maybe a good cleaning and lube is in order. Even in my climate I clean and lube that area every 6 months to keep it smooth.

JimSmileWavy

Something is binding

Or your pedal stop at footwell is too low, giving you a false reading.

Can you slightly pull up clutch pedal? It should move tiny bit like 1mm. If it doesn't move it is too tight.

It has been a while since I have done this. I do recollect that it is sort of a "counter intuitive" sort of mechanism. What I would do is go over everything from the start. You will figure it out. I had some sort of weirdness going on that was stumping me. When I evaluated everything from the start, it finally made sense.

Good luck.

Larry

PS - 40k is nothing on a clutch if you drive it normally.

+1, I know this sounds crazy with a 26MM diffrential reading but that could mean pedal stop is too low resulting in the long pedal travel. Hope this makes sense?

I know this matters for other issues but I'm pretty sure it is not the issue here b/c even with the clutch cable disconnected there is 0 gap at the helper spring adjustment point

I would love someone to stop by and talk through this I just can't figure it out. At least the car is on a lift so I can walk around underneath the car and ponder the errors of my way. By lube what do you mean? I have never messed with this clutch so I don't know the ins and outs. Do you suggest dropping the arm by removing the cir clip? wjats wierd is if I drive the car everything seems to be fine. What could stop the arm that drops out of the tranny from moving away from the arm the cable acts on. Thhere is a spring there and it seems to have a lot of tension on it. I tried levering lightly on the arm to see if I could get it to move to crate a gap put it will not budge.

Then it might be the helper arm binding on the shaft, I suggest removing and cleaning and lube. Once cable is off and helper arm pushed forward, it should rotate freely, if binding, you have rust up in there.

Yes, start over but this time remove both arms from the gear box, clean and use hi temp grease on the shaft and pivot points.

Be prepared to replace the 2 dust boot rings they will be brittle.

Helper just needs to keep the pedal up while you tighten the cable until you get the proper gap and press when you need to measure, if over 25MM, raise the pedal stop until you get 25MM

This worked every thing in spec now and pedal feels good or at least the springy over center feeling. Thanks all for the help

Outstanding