Fuel pump question

[Breeang]

Parked my car in the garage after a rainy drive, next morning engine turns at start but sputters and won't run.
Fuel pump? I think. I change the fuel pump relay with another one I know is good, pull an injector disconnect the coil and crank the engine. No fuel arriving back there.
So under the car I go and here's where I get confused. When my wifely assistant turns the key, I can feel the pump give a lttle pulse like it's trying to spin (one turn of key gives one pulse) but my test light connected across the pump terminals doesn't come on to indicate power. Nor when I connect to ground on the chassis and test each terminal independantly.
Question 1: How can the pump pulse if there is no power reaching it?
Question 2: Am I missing something here?
Question 3:Is the pump shot as I suspect?

[Targalid]

I think your pump is the same as mine in that it only runs when the engine is turning. If you simply turn the key to the run position, the pump will not run until you turn the starter. If you want to see if your pump is running, turn the ingition switch to "run" and then lift the air meter lever inside the air box to activate the pump. You will hear the injectors squeal as fuel is metered through them. Don't lift the lever for more than a second or two or you risk flooding the engine with fuel. My guess is that you got water inside the distributor. Wipe it out with a paper towel and spray a little WD 40 on the contacts, then try to start it.

[Breeang]

Targalid;
Thanks for the advice. My pump has been noisy for a long time so I fixated on that first. I haven't fiddled with the air meter lever before. Where exactly is it in the air box?

[Targalid]

Take off the air filter by removing the rear/upper half that covers the air filter element. Inside behind the air filter element you will see a metal elbow which connects the fuel distributor, to the right and outside the airbox, to the air meter plate, approximately in the center of the airbox. You need to get low and look up to see it. Lift the elbow by poking it upward with your finger and that lifts the air meter plate which activates the fuel pump. Lifting the air meter plate releases a little pressure safety switch which allows the fuel pump to run. I still think you got a little water inside your distributor cap but lifting the air meter plate with the ignition key set to "run" will let you check your fuel pump.

[Breeang]

Thankyou Sir!. I shall check it all out, but maybe not for a day or two as the real world is intruding on my fun time.
Thanks again for your help

[T77911S]

FP does not run unless engine is running.

another way to test the FP is to either remove the connector on the back of the AFM and turn key ON.
the other way is to jump pin 30 to 87 on the relay.
you can also lift up on the sensor plate as above while someone starts the car just to get it running.
make sure you have gas

if it starts you could have a cold control pressure problem, the cold start valve may not be working.
if it still sputters you may have fouled a plug.
you also may have a thermo time valve. it may be warm enough that it does not matter if it is not working, but you may look into it if it still starts bad.

[Breeang]

T77911S

More good advice, thankyou.I hope it is something simple and cheap. But I suspect we have the wrong cars for that!

[Breeang]

Quick update--
It was indeed something simple and quick. I removed the air filter element to find that my newly installed pop off valve had operated and had also unseated the rubber gasket under the valve's lid. This had prevented the valve from closing properly resulting in a massive air leak and loss of fuel delivery. A quick re-seating of the gasket with a few small dabs of silicone to hold it in place and I am back on the road. Thanks for all the help guys.
Now I wonder why I didn't hear the backfire that popped my valve???

[Targalid]

Good job finding the problem yourself. Satisfying isn't it?