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Time for valve adj.?
I hate to add yet another thread about valve adjustment (most of which I think I've read) but I had a few unanswered questions:
1. Is there a way to tell your car needs the adjustment, other than mileage (I don't know when mine were done last; I've had the car about a year ('88 Carrera), about 4K miles). 2. Do valves tend to tighten or loosen over time? (Mine don't tick like my old BMW; I don't know whether that means they need to be done or I should leave 'em alone). 3. I've read conflicting things about removing the plugs first. On the one hand, it makes turning the motor easier. On the other, it dislodges carbon particles that throw off the adjustment. Any consensus on this? 4. Can you do two cylinders at the same time (for example, cyl. 1 and 4 are TDC at the same time, right?) Or is there a reason Bentley, etc. says to turn the motor over for each of the six? 5. I guess I'll find out when I start, but can you confirm the adjustment is right simply by sliding in the feeler gauge -- or, is it that, if you can slide the gauge in at all, it's too loose. Thanks in advance! Hugh |
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Hugh,
no, tighten, roll the dice (I do), yes and no. There is a great thread on the subject in the tech section of the Pelican site on the entire procedure. It's not hard to do especially if you remove your cat or bypass pipe first. You can use the go/no-go backside method or traditional, either works well. Warren
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Lorraine 83 SC CAB RoW 2003 C4S coupe 07 BMW R1200RT 76 BMW R90S 76 BMW R60/6 |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Posts: 35
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#5 - the feeler gauge should drag slightly.
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