Remove spark plugs from hot engine?
 

Is it advisable to remove spark plugs from a hot engine? Anything wring with re torquing them in hot heads?
I'd like to check my plug color immediately after a nice stretch of high revs.
For some reason I am remembering some old advice against removing and reinstalling plugs in a hot engine.

Somewhat of a non-answer. I don't know either.

Did you actually read it?
...and torque figures may be incorrect...
Why dont' we open the antiseize-no antiseize debate again whilst we're here?

I scanned the whole article, missing that sentence (and probably others). My apologies.

The article states not to install when hot, but does not say anything about removal. Since the aluminum expands when hot it may be easier to remove them.

Plenty of experienced guys here recommend checking plugs after a good hard drive...pull over to the side of the road/track etc. And check plugs.

Problem is , if you want to get going immediately you've got to put 'em back in hot!
Or if you are like me and live at the top of a long hill , just drop into 2nd and scream up! After a good cuppa , wander back out and put plugs in again, cold.

Thanks for the input guys. I just want to do the "pull over to the side of the track" and check the plugs thing. I also don't want to destroy the threads on my heads. Just trying to get the MFI dialed in.

Tazzieman, I've been doing exactly what you said above and will continue to do so I guess. Unlike the anti-seize debate (which isn't going to do much harm either way), I'll play it safe.

Why ? Burning your hand is not fun "
The drag guys do it but on ford or chevy its way easier .

There not gonna change while it cools

Get a wide band, even though the old school worked for me for 17 years. When I finally got one I was pretty amazed how close I was just reading the plugs, etc. I pulled them hot for years, well actually I only would pull two at a time. Drive the piss out of it, prepare for pulling over, get on it, push clutch in, kill motor, coast to side, pull plug, swear after you have burned your hands, and do it all over until right. Or install wideband, check gauge, pull out trusty long screw driver, adjust, drive, adjust, done-No burned hands.

It is my understanding that since the demise of leaded fuel and the crazy additives in fuels today, reading plugs does not tell you much.

Those fuchers get really hot, and it's not like it's easy to get them threaded back in when cold either.

+1 on a wideband tester sensor. I welded in a second bung in my bypass pipe. That's how I check AFR.

Why risk cross-threading and/or burning your arm/hand/fingers/forehead/ eyeballs on that hot motor.

I broke down and bought a used wide-band on eBay today. Figured it wasn't worth screwing up the heads. Also, the fine art of plug reading is pretty much over given today's gas.

Thanks for the input.

I would not pull or install plugs in a hot engine nor put anti-seize on a plated thread spark plug.