Hard oil line question

[toddu]

While attempting to get my rear oil lines off I notice that one of the lines running to the front spins at the thermostat even though I can't get the nut on that line off to save my life. My question is, is it going to leak now that it swivels around?

Todd

[fanaudical]

Am guessing that you've spun the threads off the thermostat housing...

[JJ 911SC]

Todd

Your best bet right now is to split the nut off using a Dremel. With any luck there is no damage to the thermostat threats.

To replace the nut, you'll need the $50 Elephant Racing Nut, work like a charm. Pelican Parts - Product Information: ERMP-0170000

I got 2 of them on the thermostat that has been leaking since I got the car but even with the whole oil line assembly on the floor and using a 16" pipe wrench, I could not loose them. Now its dry like "censured"

[boyt911sc]

Todd,

Which oil line is turning? Could you post a picture of the thermostat and oil line? Thanks.

Tony

[toddu]

Hmmm, hope the threads are ok. Nut is definitely stationary and the line is loose and wobbly.

How does the race nut work? Trying to picture how you get it over the flare in the line?

Todd

[toddu]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

Todd,

Which oil line is turning? Could you post a picture of the thermostat and oil line? Thanks.

Tony

The line that bends below the jake plate insert. I'll see if I can snap a pic.

[toddu]

Originally Posted by JJ 911SC

To replace the nut, you'll need the $50 Elephant Racing Nut, work like a charm. Pelican Parts - Product Information: ERMP-0170000

Went to Elephant's site. See how the nut works now. Interesting. I'll dremel it off tomorrow to see what's going on.

What happened was I had dremel'd one of the rear lines and was going at it with hammer and chisel. Thought I had everything well supported, but apparently not as the line then went loose. I can't picture in my head what might have let go.

Todd

[HawgRyder]

Some oil lines have a sweated on end (slightly larger diameter that has the flare on it to hold the nut on)...and this is silver soldered or similar to the end of the main pipe.
It might be that this has broken loose from the main line...and after you replace the nut....needs to be re-sweated to make a non-leaking joint again.
The reason for this method...is so that you can replace the nut for repair.
Bob

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by toddu

Went to Elephant's site. See how the nut works now. Interesting. I'll dremel it off tomorrow to see what's going on.

What happened was I had dremel'd one of the rear lines and was going at it with hammer and chisel. Thought I had everything well supported, but apparently not as the line then went loose. I can't picture in my head what might have let go.

Todd

Just take your time. I did 2 cut without getting close to the threads and then put a screwdriver and turn it out which broke the nut open.

[911pcars]

If at all possible, only use a hammer if you're shaping metal pieces or losing patience. The hammer, especially a BFH, wins most every time.

Before starting, I would have suggested searching the archives for success stories in this area of a 911.

Sherwood

[toddu]

Ok, split the nut (3rd out of 4) and got it off. Threads on the thermostat only have a few "rough" areas and the hard line looks normal. So not sure why it was all loosey goosey.

I'll get the nut from ER and hopefully that will be it.

Todd

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by toddu

... I'll get the nut from ER and hopefully that will be it.

Todd

I'm sure it will be.