Replacing rear motor mounts
 

Newbee question...best way to remove rear mounts with engine still in the car???

you have to support the weight of the engine. i used a jack and engine dolly (same one used to drop engine, basically a furniture dolly with cut plywood on it) but you could probably just use a jack and block of wood.

I just did all four yesterday. I was surprised how much I had to lift the engine to keep it from drooping. The wheel started to slide inward. At first, I had what I thought was a good amount of lift, but the center bolt in the lift never loosened up and the engine dropped about 1/4" after the bolt pulled out. I cranked up a bit more on the jack under the engine and it moved right back up.

Make sure you do just one at a time. If you have AC, the right one is a bit of a bear to get the outer flange bolts out and back in with the nuts below. Mine is an '86 and has the separate nuts and bolts. I think I read that the later cars have integrated nuts below, but I'm not sure.

Don't forget the lower large clam washer when re-assembling...

Franny

Somebody drilled out the threads in your engine bracket. My 80, 84, and 87 all had no nuts below the arm.

Figures... Maybe they locked up and they snapped the bolts and had to drill them out. The bolts were yellow Cad and the mounts looked original (yellow cad as well - what was left of them), but who knows.

Well, that would have made the job a LOT easier if they were there. For the center bolts on the tranny mounts I needed a cheater pipe to get them off! Probably close to 300ft-lbs. If tight is good, tighter is better, right? They definitely had been replaced.

Thanks for the clarification. I kind of thought mine would have the built in receivers when I started. I was a bit surprised that they weren't there :(

Franny

Yes. I used my regular floor jack under the engine case. Phone book between the jack and engine. My old mounts were shot so as I lifted the engine I could easily see the center mount bolts start to rise. One at a time. You may have to raise or lower the engine minute amounts to help line up the new mount. It helps to leave the two bolts that attach the mount to the car a little loose.

One other thing to watch for is bending or breaking the engine crossmember. I don't know your location. Corrosion can be a bit of a bear here. This is a good application for an impact wrench. Just tread carefully if you find the mount bolts don't want to cooperate. -J

Me again...If I just want to drop the engine enough to get at the lower pulley, do I just remove the center bolt??? Thanks to all...

im liking the phone book trick...thanks for the tip. I could probably use a haynes manual and get the same effect :)