Fuel Pump replacement ?

alan911 · 08-03-2002, 08:05 AM

Going to attempt to change my fuel pump. ('77 CIS.) Disconnect battery, jack up car, disconnect old one and replace with new one.
Yeah, but .....

Main Question: Any tips on the best and easiest way to pinch off or plug the fuel lines (for obvious reasons) or the sequence of the removal and reconnect.

Second Question: My old pump has a short neck. The new one has a longer neck. What's the deal with that ? Do I have the wrong pump ?? Seems like a pretty tight fit and not enough length in the stock fuel lines to connect to the longer necked pump.

Help !

pbs911 · pbs911's Garage

Your gonna leak fuel whatever you do. To keep it to a min, I clamped the fuel line comming from the tank with some channel locks. Then with one hand disconnected the fuel line from the pump and with the other hand inserted a pencil.

Can't help with the differences in pumps.

Oh yea, keep a fire extinguisher readily asccessible and don't do the swap in an enclosed area. I like to have a drip pan and rags handy to catch and fuel that spills.

Doug Zielke · 08-03-2002, 08:18 AM

"The new one has a longer neck. "
I think you are looking at the check valve here.
Your old pump may have a different configuration.

You can safely clamp off the fuel lines with small, needle nose Vise-Grips. Put a few layers of electrical tape arond the jaws to prevent damage to the fuel lines.

If the hoses are too short, you can buy in-line couplers of the same ID. Then use worm gear or crimp-type hose clamps to extend the hose length. After you have everything connected, start the car and watch (several minutes) for leaks. Have a fire extinguisher at the ready.

alan911 · 08-03-2002, 08:37 AM

Yes, it is the check-valve end of the pump that's about one inch longer on the new one. Old one has same hex shape, but shorter.

None of the pics I've seen, ever show the "short" check valve pump. Can't believe I have the only one in the world.

Pencil and vise grips.....Thought it would be something more exotic like hemostats or something......since this project would be akin to a heart transplant.

thanks guys

RoninLB · 08-03-2002, 08:40 AM

..the fuel pump rubber mounts get beat in 25 years..new ones are cheap...it's a good area for an alarm siren and a fuel pump power cut out/or 2nd fuel pump cut out.................Ron

Doug Zielke · 08-03-2002, 08:45 AM

Hey Alan...
I almost forgot to mention.....use a little bit of copper grease on the electrical terminals to maintain the connection. Even though the pump is behind a shield, it's not really protected that well from moisture. My old pump was pretty corroded.

cary · 09:10 AM

OUTSIDE, NOT IN THE GARAGE

The ignition from your hot water heater could ignite the vapors. After you spill some ................

They do make a tool just for clamping hoses. It's one of my best tool investments. ( Still in my 914, holding back the fuel ). It won't cut the hoses. Napa about $18.

Sorry..........Paul already told you. Didn't read his 3rd. Paragraph close enough. Just wanted to warn you before you started.

alan911 · 08-03-2002, 09:21 AM

All good points guys. I think the pump is original and going on 25+ yrs. Mounts are shot. Rubber boots over the connectors - crumbly. Terminals grungy. I think the terminals are what's causing the no-start problem. Key on-lift the sensor plate and just get a click at the pump. Usually whirrs.

No water heater in the garage but the slope of the apron in front of my garage door goes down to the street so have no choice but to do it in the garge itself. Only flat spot I have.

I've got the car backed in so the front of the care is at the front of the garage at the door. Will pull the MBZ out before starting on this.

thanx again.