Well it ain't 9000 RPM, I can tell you that! :(

Indeed!
That's exactly the way it felt when I drove it, Jim.
Actually, it was so anxious to pull strongly beyond the redline, I was afraid to go there (with a car that wasn't mine.)
I can hardly wait to install the 20/21's in the 'Bomber. My set arrived just last week.

nah fuel limiters are pretty rough... think about it, no fuel = running lean... running lean = melting ****.

7000 is probably safe, 9k is valve float city, as evidenced by c. striets pistons & valves... to safely do that you need stiffer valve springs & retainers, maybe lighter valves and certainly a hot cam.

pz

As a drag racer I know full well when a car "noses over" past the power peak, mine with early exhaust, X-pipe, and 36mm venturi Zeniths pulls easliy to 7000. I popped in a 7000 pill and hit it a few times full power all the way there.

I'll simply submit this observation, in 10 years of running drag cars, most of which use a starting line rev limiter, burnout rev limiter and high end rev limiter I have never seen anyone use a fuel type rev limiter unless it was on a stock vehicle. I have also seen firsthand the damage a lean condition at full throttle can do and therefore fervently disagree with using a fuel cutoff. I sit on the starting line full throttle against the rev limiter at 6000rpms with never a worry. I have seen others do the same but with their Nitrous systems engaged at full throttle against their starting line rev-limiter, lean+nitrous=ruined engine at best! Aftermarket spark rev limiters sequentially remove sparks from individual cylinders allowing the cylinders to fire on the next revolution keeping the motor clean and the fuel burned.

Using some BMEP calculations, I came up with the following examples for 3 liter motor to illustrate what needs to be done to make HP.

* Assuming an engine which generates a BMEP of about 145 psi (which is comparable to an E and a stock SC. See below for some comparisons.)

This is how fast you will need to spin this motor to generate the following Horsepower numbers:

* 200 HP = 6000 RPM
* 250 HP = 7500 RPM
* 300 HP = 9000 RPM
* 350 HP = 10500 RPM

Now "wilder cam's", higher CR and such will often give higher BMEP's. Here are some example peak HP BMEP's to give you some idea of the range:

* WW1 Albatross Benz Motor: 108 psi
* (Ferrari) Dino 246: 138 psi
* BMW K100: 148 psi
* Early Ferrari 308: 149 psi
* US Spec Ford Zetec SVT V6 (4 valve): 150 psi
* Honda CBR 1000 (4 valve): 152 psi
* FF1600 "Kent" motor: 155 psi
* Kawasaki ZX11 (4 valve): 159 psi
* Suzuki GSXR 1100 (4 valve): 160 psi
* BMW K1200 LT/RS (4 valve): 164 psi
* Early "S" Motor: 164 psi
* Yamaha FZR 1000 (4 valve): 169
* Porsche RSR 2.8: 171 psi
* Eagle Weslake 3.0 V12: 180 psi
* Ferrari 360 GT (FIA/ACO): 183 psi
* Dale Shaw Mazda GLC SCCA GT5 motor: 185 psi
* Porsche 917 5.4: 192 psi
* Porsche 917 4.5: 197 psi
* Cosworth DFY F1 engine (4 valve): 203 psi
* Honda 2.0 F3 engine (4 valve): 204 psi
* Nissan Supertouring 2.0 (4 valve): 248 psi :eek:

That will give you an idea of how hard you'll have to work to increase the BMEP. You can then do the BMEP = function of (HP, Rev's) calculation yourself:

BMEP = HP * 792000/(Displacement in inches * peak HP rev's).

Note I've tried to consistantly use european (DIN?) HP. Be careful because SAE HP will make the numbers look noticably higher.