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rear torsion bar length?

Are all rear torsion bars the same length? I am replacing my stock spring plates, with adjustable ones from a later year.
I am in the process of removing the old ones right now and the torsion bar cover is a lot shorter on my stock one, than on the replacement.
In fact, the teeth that hold the splines are way down at the end of the new one and it doesn't even look like the old torsion bars will reach them.
It's 4" from plate to end of cap on the old ones. And 8" from plate to end of cap on the replacements.
I bought them used and were told they were from a Carrerra and would work.
I am not seeing how they will work.

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1975 911S Peru Red
Old 08-01-2013, 11:23 AM
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Max Sluiter
 
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No. G50 cars (1985 I believe and on Carrera 3.2) bars are shorter because the tube has been bent in the middle to clear the big G50 transmission. They also have much longer caps or whatever you want to call the piece of the spring plate that sticks out the hole in the cover plate.
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1971 chassis, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened

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Old 08-01-2013, 11:59 AM
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Thanks, so it looks like the ones I have wont work with my stock transmission. I'll take them back.
They are definitely too long and the teeth wont grab the splines.
Correct?
I'm just lowering it the old fashioned way now, since I am in there.
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Old 08-01-2013, 12:18 PM
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Max Sluiter
 
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Your spring plates should stick out this much:

RearT-Bars+Bushings (39) by Max_911S_fahrer, on Flickr
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911S
1971 chassis, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened

Suspension by Rebel Racing, Serviced by TLG Auto, Brakes by PMB Performance
http://www.flickr.com/photos/max_911_fahrer/
Old 08-01-2013, 12:36 PM
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Max Sluiter
 
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Not this much:
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911S
1971 chassis, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened

Suspension by Rebel Racing, Serviced by TLG Auto, Brakes by PMB Performance
http://www.flickr.com/photos/max_911_fahrer/
Old 08-01-2013, 12:39 PM
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Yep, I got the ones with the longer tube/cap. Oh well, since i already have it apart I am going to try and bring it down by moving splines and adjusting spring plate. I just wanted to put on adjustable ones since i had it apart.
Thanks Fleiger.
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Old 08-01-2013, 12:47 PM
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Got it done by using this method,
"Jack the car up and support it with jack stand on the INSIDE portion of the torsion bar tube. Scribe the position of the spring plate against the inner wheel well to use as a reference in case you need to start over, or, re-index the spring plate on the torsion bar. The reference mark is made BEFORE disconnecting from the trailing arm, you’ll make two more reference marks later.


Disconnect the shock to allow tension to be taken off the torsion bar. 24mm socket/wrench if I recall. NOTE: you should always support the trailing-arm with the jack. I removed mine to snap the picture. This also allows for easier removal of the shock bolt as there is no tension on it.


Keep the trailing-arm supported with a floor jack to keep full weight off the axle and CV joints. You can fine-tune the height in order to remove the camber, toe-in, and connector bolts since there is tension on them.


Remove the spring plate bracket, 4 bolts. There is also a spacer behind the bracket at the lowest hole.


Once the spring plate is fully disconnected from the trailing- arm and the bracket has been removed, scribe another mark against the rear wheel well. Again, this will be a reference to get things back to your starting point should you run into trouble along the way.


Take a measurement from the bottom most edge of the spring plate to the floor. In my case this was 8.75 inches. My current ride height was 26.25 and I needed to come down to 25.0, a difference of 1.25 inches. I removed the spring plate from the torsion bar and rotated the spring plate up, away from the ground until the measurement on the ruler was 10 inches. Luckily, there was a spline on the torsion bar at this location and I was able to slide the spring plate back on and keep the proper measurement. It appears that if you need to lower the car 1”, you can rotate the spring plate up 1”to get the desired results. I think I was extremely lucky since I got exactly 25.0 inches when I was done. In any case, this should get you close and you can do a fine adjustment using the eccentric bolt on the adjustable spring plate. If your spring plates are not adjustable, you will need to be a bit more exact. It may be wise to find adjustable spring plates from a later 911, or purchase a set of the Sway-A-Way adjustable spring plates from Pelican Parts"

That's a quote from another thread. Worked pretty good. Those aren't my measurements but the theory is the same.

Damn, right on the money. Have an appointment at Johnsons alignment tomorrow. Thanks again Flieger.

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Last edited by dipso; 08-01-2013 at 04:00 PM..
Old 08-01-2013, 03:56 PM
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