Ignition key sporadically won't turn on 1970 911T

[Dumans24]

I am having an issue with the ignition switch on my 1970 911T. Very sporadically when I put the key in and attempt to turn it it will not turn. It seems to me that something in the “tumbler ???” is messed up. After many attempts and sometimes trying another one of my keys it will work. I have only had the car about three months.

The first time I experienced the problem was when I had a new key made. At that time I put the newly made key in and attempted to start the car. The key would not turn. I put in my original key that worked prior and it did not turn either. Panic set in. Finally after many attempts I got my original key to work.

Since that time I have had the problem two times more. This is now keeping me from driving the car as I have the risk of getting stranded. By the way, the switch is the type that locks the steering wheel.

Does anyone have any suggestions? I guess worst case scenario I need to replace the switch. If this is the case is it something someone with basic mechanical skills could possibly do?
THANKS!!

[Joe Bob]

Well back in the day, turning the key and waggling the steering wheel was the cure. If that doesn't do it......looks like you should consider a tear down an see what is worn out and fix or consider a replacement.

Some of the ignition swiyches of that era are NLA. I would contact Toney Eugeno the Porsche key guy. He travels to all the shows and is located in PA. He answers his phone......

I assume you have a manual? The last "70" model I did a switch on was my old 914/6......

There on online pdf files called the "PET" that are helpful.

[Dumans24]

Originally Posted by Joe Bob

Well back in the day, turning the key and waggling the steering wheel was the cure. If that doesn't do it......looks like you should consider a tear down an see what is worn out and fix or consider a replacement.

Some of the ignition swiyches of that era are NLA. I would contact Toney Eugeno the Porsche key guy. He travels to all the shows and is located in PA. He answers his phone......

Thanks for the quick response. I do have a manual but having a bit of trouble finding what I need. I did try moving the steering wheel around but it didn't help. I was able to find a switch on eBay but not sure if I am capable of doing the replacement. Anyone know of a step by step out there. I'll also try some searches.

[BlueWing]

Well first did you try and lube/clean the lock? Try a flush of WD40, spray liberally, work the key you have in and out and repeat until the WD40 runs out clean. Than use a dry silicone type lube. Who knows what a PO used to lube in the past.

Are the keys original and in good shape? The hey should be not worn down smooth?
If the key is worn the copy you have is a copy of a worn key and will work in the same manor as the original. If the original one you have is a copy then you can not tell if that was made from a good one. I cut my own keys and in cases of worn keys I will cut it on a machine I have and add a couple of thousands, than using a file ( I call it an imressioning file) I'll remove just enough where the wafers leave a slight polished spot. Most locksmiths can do this for you.

If this all fails a new key section will be needed and than that will leave you with mismatched keys for the car. Just an additional key to carry.

HTH

Terry

[ossiblue]

Originally Posted by BlueWing

Well first did you try and lube/clean the lock? Try a flush of WD40, spray liberally, work the key you have in and out and repeat until the WD40 runs out clean. Than use a dry silicone type lube. Who knows what a PO used to lube in the past.

Are the keys original and in good shape? The hey should be not worn down smooth?
If the key is worn the copy you have is a copy of a worn key and will work in the same manor as the original. If the original one you have is a copy then you can not tell if that was made from a good one. I cut my own keys and in cases of worn keys I will cut it on a machine I have and add a couple of thousands, than using a file ( I call it an imressioning file) I'll remove just enough where the wafers leave a slight polished spot. Most locksmiths can do this for you.

If this all fails a new key section will be needed and than that will leave you with mismatched keys for the car. Just an additional key to carry.

HTH

Terry

+1 on the above.

You are experiencing typical vintage ignition tumbler syndrome, for lack of a better name. The cause is worn tumbler pins and/or key teeth and the first step is usually a good cleaning and lube as Terry posted. I'd suggest you try that first, using a rag to catch the overflow of lube/cleaner. It is important to finish up the cleaning with a flush of something like brake cleaner, followed by a non-gummy lube like silicone.

Moving the wheel will not help as the jam is the tumbler pins, not the steering lock cam. A good locksmith can re-cut your key to adjust for wear on the teeth and likely resolve the issue for awhile. If worse comes to worse and you need to replace, you can remove the lock mechanism and a locksmith can remove the tumbler and match new pins to you keys.

[Dumans24]

Originally Posted by BlueWing

Well first did you try and lube/clean the lock? Try a flush of WD40, spray liberally, work the key you have in and out and repeat until the WD40 runs out clean. Than use a dry silicone type lube. Who knows what a PO used to lube in the past.

Are the keys original and in good shape? The hey should be not worn down smooth?
If the key is worn the copy you have is a copy of a worn key and will work in the same manor as the original. If the original one you have is a copy then you can not tell if that was made from a good one. I cut my own keys and in cases of worn keys I will cut it on a machine I have and add a couple of thousands, than using a file ( I call it an imressioning file) I'll remove just enough where the wafers leave a slight polished spot. Most locksmiths can do this for you.

If this all fails a new key section will be needed and than that will leave you with mismatched keys for the car. Just an additional key to carry.

HTH

Terry

I did try dry silicone but not the WD40 first. Do I do the WD40 "wash" with the ignition switch still installed in dash?

Thanks.

[BlueWing]

You can do it with the ignition still installed. Protect the dash area under the switch with maybe some painters tape, rags or plastic just something to keep from staining the trim area below the switch.

How do both doors and glovebox operate?

Terry

[Dumans24]

Originally Posted by BlueWing

You can do it with the ignition still installed. Protect the dash area under the switch with maybe some painters tape, rags or plastic just something to keep from staining the trim area below the switch.

How do both doors and glovebox operate?

Terry

Thanks. Not well. I'll confirm tonight as I think a door and possibly glovebox are keyed differently. The joys of no idea what the previous owners have done. I am finding surprises daily.

[pete3799]

Do the brake clean or WD40 flush and re-lube.
Mine did the same thing when I first bought it. In 4 years it's only done it once.....cleaned / re-lubed been fine since.

[Dumans24]

Originally Posted by pete3799

Do the brake clean or WD40 flush and re-lube.
Mine did the same thing when I first bought it. In 4 years it's only done it once.....cleaned / re-lubed been fine since.

Thanks all for your help. I did the WD40 clean seems like it may be better. Still afraid to turn it out and remove key when away from home. Will do a number of short drives and right back home. Something weird happened though. It seems like the steering lock isn't working now.

[pete3799]

Steering lock wont engage till you remove the key.