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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,942
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Airbox removal, '83SC/ blow off valve installation
I am trying to do the airbox blow-off valve installation. I don't have a right angle drill and I am contemplating removing the airbox for the procedure. Is the airbox easy to get at (I have heard it's tough to do)? What's the general procedure? Neither Haynes nor Bentley cover this.
From your experience, could I get in there (with the airbox still installed in the car) with a normal (not right angle) drill? Thanks. |
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08-28-2001, 10:24 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 69
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I did mine (also an 83), I used a right angle adapter for my drill. I couldn't get in there without it.
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08-28-2001, 10:29 AM
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Lacey, WA. USA
Posts: 25,310
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I could not have got in there without the right angle drill attachment. I was able to buy one for under $20 at Harbor Freight Tools. You can also simply rent a right angle drill.
Removing the air box is not the slightest bit easy. It's not easy if the engine is removed. With the engine in the car, it would be downright difficult. To say the least. Be sure to take a piece of sandpaper to the mating surface of the new popoff valve. It is too shiny (almost greasy) for the glue to grab it well. Mine popped out because I did not sand that surface well the first time. The air box will have just been drilled, so no sanding is necessary. ------------------ '83 SC |
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08-28-2001, 10:39 AM
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I can attest to how difficult it is to remove the airbox while in the car. I have done this.
Spend the $20 |
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08-28-2001, 10:45 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,942
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Thanks guys. I'll start looking for a drill adapter.
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08-28-2001, 11:22 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Aachen, Germany
Posts: 43
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Be careful, don't get too deep into the airbox with the drill, you can hit the
distributor for the cold start fuel / air mixture (made of stainless steel). You can see it on a photo in Bruce Anderson's handbook. I cracked the glue, split the airbox and then drilled the 2" hole (maybe crazy...) ------------------ Robert / 80 Targa |
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08-29-2001, 04:34 AM
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Left Coast, Canada
Posts: 4,572
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Rent a right-angle drill motor. Make sure the chuck will accomedate the shank of the hole saw arbor.
You will get a paper template to mark the layout for the valve. Make a 1/4" pilot hole for the 1/4' bit in the hole saw to follow. If you just drill straight away with the hole saw, you may have the hole saw jump around too much. When drilling, the saw will want to grab the box and twist the drill out of you hands. Be careful during the drilling to avoid this. I found it best to start and stop the drill repeatedly, just easing it through the cut. Use lots of epoxy, making sure all the surfaces are covered. You need to get a good leak-proof seal. Everything must be clean and grease-free. Use brake cleaner to degrease. Take your time. If you screw this up, you'll be pissed. ------------------ '81 SC Coupe (aka: "Blue Bomber") Canada West Region PCA The Blue Bomber's Website |
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08-29-2001, 04:52 AM
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