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Nor Cal driver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Rafael
Posts: 75
Question Engine Cover Pops Open

Whenever I corner quickly or drive aggresively for a bit - the engine cover pops open - it looks like the latch may be worn out. Has anyone had to replace this? Could my chassis be flexing so much that it is twisting open?

I'll say this - I hate getting out of the car knowing that the engine cover is unlatched.

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75' S w/ 3.0L
2001 Suzuki TL1000S
2001 Subaru Outback VDC
Old 12-14-2002, 09:34 AM
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Thomas Owen's Avatar
 
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I doubt that it is coming 'unlatched', more likely it is not latched to begin with. Check the alignment of the pin with the socket. You can extend/retract the pin and shift the socket from side to side to optimize the alignment of the two.
Good luck,
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Old 12-14-2002, 09:39 AM
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Thanks for the thought.

While this may elicit some laughs from the more mechanically gifted set - I have checked several times prior to a drive that it was latched. I have checked the operation of the latch a few times by having someone pull the release while I watch the operation, and the release clearly engages and disengages. Also, I check by carefully feeding the pin into the reciever, closing the cover, and then try to get it to release by wiggling it and pulling etc. - no release, then drive - get out - engine cover open.

Visual inspection of the latch shows that the reciever seems very worn, even carved out, where the pin comes down.

Has anyone replaced this part before?
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75' S w/ 3.0L
2001 Suzuki TL1000S
2001 Subaru Outback VDC
Old 12-14-2002, 09:50 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Chesapeake, VA
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Nor Cal, I had the same problem, under hard cornering it would pop open. I think you really need to merely adjust the lower latch. If you use your fingers to slide the latch mechanizm back and forth you will find a point where the latch tab (inside the receptacle hole) will have its maximum deflection out to hold the upper latch bolt down. I think if you adjust to this point you'll find that it stays latched. I replaced mine with a used one that looked like new, cleaned my old one up and found out that it is still in very good condition and probably did not need to be swapped out. I'd be depressed, but got the lower latch for about 10.00, still looks good with its original cad coating so I am smiling. Good luck!
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Chris

1988 911 Carrera Targa (driving project started JAN 2022)

1970 911E - Long since gone
1972 911 Targa - gone
1987 911 Carrera - gone
Retired FA-18C Driver
Old 12-14-2002, 10:36 AM
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Thanks FA-18 - So if you move the mech back and forth, what's to keep it where you move it once you shut the engine cover?
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75' S w/ 3.0L
2001 Suzuki TL1000S
2001 Subaru Outback VDC
Old 12-14-2002, 10:48 AM
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The cable that runs from the door jamb that pops the hood holds it into position. The cable goes into the adjustment hole (kind of like bike brake cable adjustments) then gets tightened down with a screw. It was easiest to straighten the adjustment wire/cable, hold it with tension with a pair of pliers, then use your other hand to move the latch adjustment assembly over until you have it fully "closed." If you've got someone to tighten the screw great, OTW bend the wire 90 deg with the pliers, then you can tighten her up... does that make sense?
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Chris

1988 911 Carrera Targa (driving project started JAN 2022)

1970 911E - Long since gone
1972 911 Targa - gone
1987 911 Carrera - gone
Retired FA-18C Driver
Old 12-14-2002, 10:54 AM
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Ah-ha. Just like adjusting a clutch cable, or shifters on a bicycle... Thanks.
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75' S w/ 3.0L
2001 Suzuki TL1000S
2001 Subaru Outback VDC
Old 12-14-2002, 10:56 AM
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the navy guy has it correct, that's what I had to do when my deck lid decided it wanted to be a pop-up tail!

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H.D. Smith
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Old 12-14-2002, 11:15 AM
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