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911SC oil leakage from top - easy acess?

Hello!
I noticed some slow but regular oil leakage from the top of my 911SC engine (1979, 3.0).

I downpinned the source most obviously since I backdated the heat air flow an so now I have a better look behind the k-jet unit.
Wet/dark oilclutter is sure noticeable from the right of the gaspulley unit.
A classic, as far as I learned.

Here's a borrowed picture, but it's 1:1 the same with me:


Question is now, how do you access this the best way and the most intelligent way?

For this only, I do not want to drop the engine.
On the other hand, I guess I'll have to dismantle the area by taking off the whole air-intake unit incl. k-jet/fuel distributor unit?

I guess the latter might be a pita and "scares" me a litte, as I'd rather not touch the fuel system.

What do you suggest?
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Old 08-11-2013, 10:40 PM
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The Bavarian
 
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Been there, done that. And based on my experience, I strongly recommend to drop the engine. Why? To get access to the triangle of death, you need to remove the CIS equipment completely. I'm pretty sure it will take longer to remove the CIS than it will take to drop the engine. Once the engine is out you have good access to clean up and seal the oil leaks. I would further recommend to clean up the clutch area since the oil most probably has spread there (this can ruin your clutch easily).
I have just re-installed my engine after replacing every seal/gasket I could access and hunting down all vacuum leaks. It now runs like a champ!

Grüße aus Bayern, Manfred
Old 08-11-2013, 11:17 PM
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thanks.
had hoped to avoid this somehow.
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:37 PM
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The Bavarian
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flojo View Post
had hoped to avoid this somehow.
You can try to avoid it, others have done it. But I would say the general consensus on this board is that dropping the engine is easier and much more efficient in terms of work and results.

- Manfred
Old 08-11-2013, 11:57 PM
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OK, danke!
Kleine Ursache, großes Projekt :-(
Old 08-12-2013, 02:12 AM
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I dropped the engine just a few inches, removed the entire CIS, in about 90 minutes, had it all out and was cleaning.
I redid all the CIS and airbox seals while it was out. Very rewarding diy project to do .

So it can be done if your not up to dropping the engine.
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Old 08-12-2013, 02:26 AM
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now that's a good idea!
thanks for the tip!
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Old 08-12-2013, 09:53 AM
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Partial drop to fix, if you want it clean.....total drop to degrease.

FYI using a degreaser can and will fuse the clutch disc to the flywheel.

Ask me how I know.
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Old 08-12-2013, 10:36 AM
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Hello y'all!
I have to come back to this, as it looks like I'll find the time now to do an attempt.

Of course -while doing it- I will find out what alltogether has to be fixed, but I want to learn more BEFORE getting started - I guess you understand me.

Firt question - to do the few-inch-drop, I envisage loosening the rear motormounts and the gearbridge. that's all or shift rod disconnection necessary too?

Quote:
Originally Posted by theiceman View Post
I dropped the engine just a few inches, removed the entire CIS, in about 90 minutes, ..
Second question - looking at the picture below, it seems the leak comes from further on top, so it might not be the coverseal, nor the sensorseal on the left.
could it simply be the hose that cracked or slipped off?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flojo View Post
Here's a borrowed picture, but it's 1:1 the same with me:
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Old 01-09-2014, 03:41 AM
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On an SC if the hose was off or cracked you would have unmetered air so you would be lean. Removing the oil cap and having the rpms change would not be.
Make sure you clean the area well and blow it off because that is direct into your oil galley.
The red top oil light switch can be defective also..and thats direct oil galley also.
In the past couple years I have had problems with the sealing ring of the thermostat not sealing. I have gone to 574 at and above the seal and in most cases it helps but I have a Carrera that is leaking after having replaced the seal and added 574.
Bruce
Old 01-09-2014, 05:54 AM
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Partial Engine Drop: Pelican Technical Article: Partial 911 Engine Drop

Engine Drop: Pelican Technical Article: 911 Engine Removal Made Easy
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Old 01-09-2014, 06:35 AM
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Ah, thanks "Targalid"!
That gives me the missing confidence to what I already gathered in the forum.

One last thing:
the tutorial mentions the oil drain.
1/2
is the critical S-line (sump-to-coller) that short that one MUST disconnect it?!
a) I did an oilchainge just recently (darn)
b) I cannot mess around where the car's at right now (2nd darn)

2/2
is ist enough to loosen the scavange-oil-line-wheel-house-fixbracket

many thanks in advance for you paciently replying (once again)... ;-)
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Old 01-09-2014, 06:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theiceman View Post
I dropped the engine just a few inches, removed the entire CIS, in about 90 minutes
Remove the rear most two big bolts that hold the engine yolk in. Do not touch the transmission "gear bridge" yolk or bolts.

Drop your engine six inches at the rear and pull your CIS off.

If you have not done this before, allow several hours - like three hours - after you lower the engine - to remove CIS. Just go slow and be careful.


Edit: Also review the links targalid provided. Good luck :-)
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Last edited by Bob Kontak; 01-09-2014 at 07:09 AM..
Old 01-09-2014, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Kontak View Post
Remove the rear most two big bolts that hold the engine yolk in. Do not touch the transmission "gear bridge" yolk or bolts.

Drop your engine six inches at the rear and pull your CIS off.

If you have not done this before, allow several hours - like three hours - after you lower the engine - to remove CIS. Just go slow and be careful.


Edit: Also review the links targalid provided. Good luck :-)
It's most likely obvious but please be sure to have a good floor jack under your engine before loosening those mount bolts, then lower it using the jack. Also, before you lift the intake off the heads be SURE there are no washers, loose nuts, acorns, or anything else that can drop down into the valves. Have six rags handy to shove in the intake ports the second you are able to do so to avoid something falling in while you are working..
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Old 01-09-2014, 07:52 AM
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Careful with fasteners falling into intakes

Jack the rear up waste high so you don't kill your back.
Partial drop is the key along with swivel sockets 12 & 13mm with extensions.
Magnet on a wand is a must.
Number 6 & 5 intake runners are the most difficult.
Take lots of before photos and label or color tag everything.
Take your time and you'll be fine.
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Old 01-09-2014, 08:28 AM
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Thanks.

And wagst about the oil draining?

A Must?
Old 01-09-2014, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flojo View Post
Thanks.

And wagst about the oil draining?

A Must?
Why would you need to drain the oil??
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Old 01-09-2014, 09:12 AM
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because of this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flojo View Post
the tutorial mentions the oil drain.
1/2
is the critical S-line (sump-to-coller) that short that one MUST disconnect it?!
a) I did an oilchainge just recently (darn)
b) I cannot mess around where the car's at right now (2nd darn)
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Old 01-09-2014, 09:15 AM
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I guess so, never did a "partial" drop, can see where that may pose an issue...
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Old 01-09-2014, 09:22 AM
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Got started this morning.
Pictures tonight!
Old 01-10-2014, 03:17 AM
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