Wur Check

[nicfranc]

This is the WUR that is in my 1980sc


I believe this is the WUR that is supposed to be in my engine.

[Bob Kontak]

Your WUR has sun shining on where the number 072 is on the second one. Can you see a three digit number stamped on the surface?

[nicfranc]

There does not seem to be any more numbers after the 140
Maybe this is from another make vehicle.
I know Porsche only used one model for 1980 and it does not have a vacuum port.
Does anyone know if these WUR models are interchangeable ?

[Bob Kontak]

That port looks pretty non functional on yours.

However, Jim's CIS Primer clearly says the 072 is your regulator and 072 is stamped into your second picture. See cross reference. CIS Primer for the Porsche 911

This is interesting as my 81 US model had an 089 WUR that is for the ROW SC. Maybe that was the hot ticked for adding richness to the US SC's in the day? I put a new 090 on. I can't find my 089 or I would show where the 089 number is present.

[T77911S]

that thing looks like its been underwater. did you find it on the hunley? if the rest of the CIS looks like that, i am betting you more problems than the WUR. has is been sitting?

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak

That port looks pretty non functional on yours.

However, Jim's CIS Primer clearly says the 072 is your regulator and 072 is stamped into your second picture. See cross reference. CIS Primer for the Porsche 911

This is interesting as my 81 US model had an 089 WUR that is for the ROW SC. Maybe that was the hot ticked for adding richness to the US SC's in the day? I put a new 090 on. I can't find my 089 or I would show where the 089 number is present.

Nicfranc,

The right WUR for '80SC (US models) is 0-438-140-072 with vent. The second picture showing -072 has no vent. This could work too if it delivers the correct specification during operation and have not seen a -072 without vent installed in a '80 CIS engine.

Clean and brush the top section of your WUR to reveal the last 3 digits. Measure the heating resistance (Ohms) when engine is cold and completely warmed up. Post the values (Ohms) and I could tell you if you have a good working WUR or not as far as thermal setting operation. The fuel pressure settings is the other side of the coin.

I'm on vacation (again) and I could test your WUR for FREE so you don't have to guess if it good or bad!!!!! PM me if you need this free service. Keep us posted.

Tony

[nicfranc]

Tony,

It is nice of you to check in while on vacation.
As far as the Numbers on the WUR in my car
there are no additional numbers.

0 438 140 and then nothing, no three additional numbers.

Maybe the mechanic had a WUR that was for another vehicle make like a VW or Mercedes.

I will check the resistance report back.
I am also getting my pressure gauges tomorrow from Pelican and will run the test for the CIS

[RDM]

Nicfranc,

Interesting that you and I are having similar experiences! The right WUR?

The last three digits are stamped into the metal, rather than cast. The cast numbers stick out, the stamped numbers don't. My last three were difficult to read, but they were there, as you can see from my picture at the link.

The WURs are not interchangeable.

And yes, Tony (boyt911sc) is the bees knees.

[nicfranc]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

Nicfranc,

The right WUR for '80SC (US models) is 0-438-140-072 with vent. The second picture showing -072 has no vent. This could work too if it delivers the correct specification during operation and have not seen a -072 without vent installed in a '80 CIS engine.

Tony

Is the circled WUR a 0-438-140-072 (without vent) ?
Are their vented and unvented 0-438-140-072 WURS ?
I thought the 1980sc WUR had no vent.
EDIT/UPDATE: TONY SAYS THE WUR LABELED 1980 IS IN ERROR

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by nicfranc

Tony,

It is nice of you to check in while on vacation.
As far as the Numbers on the WUR in my car
there are no additional numbers.

0 438 140 and then nothing, no three additional numbers.

Maybe the mechanic had a WUR that was for another vehicle make like a VW or Mercedes.

I will check the resistance report back.
I am also getting my pressure gauges tomorrow from Pelican and will run the test for the CIS

Nic,

Remove the WUR from the engine and give it some TLC. Your engine looks like a salvage motor no wonder it is running bad (just kidding)!!!! Take a small wire brush and clean the top section of the WUR. Take pictures and post. I bet there are some identification numbers there. The corrosion might have covered the markings.

Please post the resistance readings (cold & warm) in Ohms and if you have the pressure gauge, include the pressure readings (psi/bar). One quick look at these numbers would show the condition of your WUR. If the numbers are within spec, the WUR is good and leave it alone. However, if the numbers are all over the chart, you know what to do next. Keep us posted.

Tony

[nicfranc]

Tony,
I received the pressure gauges from Pelican today along with new CIS vacuum sealing parts:
Runner seals, injection sleeves and O rings, manifold gaskets, hoses etc.
Have a digital multimeter as well as old school meters.

Is Bentley the best reference for conducting the pressure tests ?
Is there some other reference or thread that could walk me through this testing procedure ?

My engine has 300,000 + miles on it.
No major work has been done on it.
Case is unopened heads have not been redone.
No Pop-Off valve and no pressure fed tensioners.
No broken head studs.

Recently tuned: Oil change, rotor, cap, new ignition wires, valves adjusted


It was running great till these recent hiccups.
Fixed some of the vacuum leaks and it is running better.

The WUR really looks old but i do not believe it is the original. I think it was swapped out
and the mechanic threw in something he had laying around. That is my theory anyway.

I have no problem purchasing a new WUR if I can get the right one for a US 1980sc. O2b sensor is disconnected. Relay under pass. seat checks out.

[tirwin]

This thread I started has the test procedure:

CIS Troubleshooting for Dummies

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by nicfranc

I think it was swapped out
and the mechanic threw in something he had laying around. That is my theory anyway.

Just for fun look at the three WUR's in post #13 in this thread below.

Warm up regulator on 82 911SC

The one on the left is an 090. Do you see the 090? I did not either until I downloaded it to my desktop and blew the picture up a little.

Also in post #2 of this thread is part of Tony's stash. He has an unfair advantage when speaking about WUR's. :-)

I Need Your Warm Up Regulator (WUR)

Can you get a dremel on the top of it and wire brush it? The hand stamp may be very faint.

[nicfranc]

You guys are money…..

I thought the numbers on the WUR were all raised.
I removed the WUR and cleaned it up and sure enough the last three (072) numbers were engraved or punched into the top of the WUR.




I ran the resistance test and the numbers look low

[Bob Kontak]

Let Tony answer on the WUR resistance.

He lives for saving fools like us.

[boyt911sc]

Nic,

Exactly what I thought!!!!! This is a typical problem with the WUR-072/090 and I was expecting this value between 9 to 10 Ohms. At this setting it would be able to start the engine cold but it would struggle after multiple attempts. Install the WUR back on the car and check the fuel pressures. You need to know how the FP test is done (procedure) and if you have any question don't hesitate to ask from these guys. Or PM me with your phone number and I'll walk you through the process......very simple.

BTW, the picture you have attached showing the '80 SC WUR has the wrong illustration. I have called the attention already of the author in my previous posts about the mistake. CIS Primer is a very valuable tool to CIS owners and enthusiasts. And my full respect to the effort of Jim Williams to have this reference available to everyone.

Tony

[Bob Kontak]

Tony,

Can you swap him out for one that has the correct resistance?

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak

Tony,

Can you swap him out for one that has the correct resistance?

Bob,

At this point, I think his WUR could be saved!!!! If Nicfranc could wait a few weeks and send his WUR to me, I'll check it for FREE. But he has to decide. I have several -072 in my inventory, but I rather help this guy get his WUR to work than sell him a WUR he does not need.

Wait till the fall weather comes (Sept. & October) and you'll notice the posts about cold start would appear very often. A properly sorted CIS engine should start all the time regardless of weather without tinkering the WUR. The so called adjustable WUR's are for those who don't realize that there is an inherent problem within the set-up if you need to adjust it seasonally.

Tony

[nicfranc]

Thanks Tony, Bob. tirwin and the other Pelican members for your guidance.
I am beginning to make some headway with how the CIS functions.

I am researching pressure test procedures and will post results either tomorrow or Friday.

I stripped out my AC & Heater Blower and hoses for now so it is easier to work in the Engine compartment.

Made up a jumper switch with parts from Radio Shack

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by nicfranc

Thanks Tony, Bob. tirwin and the other Pelican members for your guidance.
I am beginning to make some headway with how the CIS functions.

I am researching pressure test procedures and will post results either tomorrow or Friday.

I stripped out my AC & Heater Blower and hoses for now so it is easier to work in the Engine compartment.

Made up a jumper switch with parts from Radio Shack

nic,

That's a good jumper set-up. Now pull out the red FP relay and connect the jumper wires to:
87A...........located at 11 o'clock position at the relay socket (double check too).
30.............located at 6 o'clock position at the FP relay (double check).

Turn the ignition switch to ON position (not START) and turn ON the switch for the jumper. FP should run!!!!

BTW, the fuel pressure gauge should be connected first in order to be able to read the fuel pressures during the test run. Break the fuel line connection at the WUR instead of the FD (fuel distributor) as shown in some manuals. Or you could try it at the FD and see for your self why I recommend it doing the other way. The shut-off valve must be closer to the WUR in order to read the system fuel pressure. Keep us posted.

Tony