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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Colorado
Posts: 274
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Door seal/weatherstripping question
I replaced my door seals today. It was a pretty quick job. However, the door requires a bit harder of a slam than it used to before. Further, upon opening, the doors kind of spring open a little (as there is pressure from the new seal).
Do these typically settle in after a few days, or did I screw up?
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-Ethan |
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Door seals
Seals are made of EPDM sponge (synthetic rubber) and definitely take a set over time, especially if exposed to high temperatures. If your old ones were more than 10 years old, and you live anywhere south of the Mason-Dixon Line, they could have compressed up to 40% or more.
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Colorado
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Thanks, Lyle. I'll let it sit for a few days before I muck about with trying to re-apply.
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-Ethan |
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Cape Vincent, NY
Posts: 841
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New seals could require you adjust the latch a little bit. They shrink so much over time.
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1968 911S "Leona" Air goes in and out, blood goes round and round, any variation on this is a bad thing. |
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Quote:
![]() Now I can drive it in the rain and stay dry inside ![]()
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Henri '87 Carrera coupe: Venetian blue |
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Colorado
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Any tips on adjusting the door latches/strike plates? I just ordered a set of triple square sockets from Amazon, which should arrive tomorrow. However, I have not found any documentation for adjusting these. Is it just a matter of loosening those triple-square bolts and moving the plate - or will I need to get in from behind the body panel?
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-Ethan |
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AutoBahned
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you can work on cleaning the crud away while you wait for the sockets to arrive - hose the fasteners down with kroil for a few days too - & tap on them a few hundred times
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Quote:
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Colorado
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Quote:
It turns out that the bits that I bought are not socket, but for a driver, which is might be OK. They will fit nicely into the impact hammer that I use for the rear brake rotors. Do you think that an impact hammer will work or damage the body?
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-Ethan |
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AutoBahned
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you are going to remove the wheel and reach back in behind the pillar - unless you miss a hand impact tool will be perfect for the task
be sure to clean the wrenching fixture out very carefully with a metal pick tool also see if you need to treat rust, add undercoating etc. while in there clean the taillight housing area also & remove the 10 lbs. of gravel you find there |
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Pontiac, IL
Posts: 952
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There are two screw heads that hold each striker plate. They are accessible from the door side of the B pillar. Your 8mm triple square should work with a 1/2 socket and you should be able to use your 3/4" ratchet. I had the same experience. The new seals take a long time to crush and stay somewhat crushed.
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I don't always talk to liberal arts grads, but when I do, I tell them Big Mac and small fries! 1974 911 RUF Clone ('85 3.2; '86 915) 1974 914 ('87 3.2L & 915 transaxle) 2005 Boxster (Base car) Guards Red. |
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