Mayo's Porsche Shop just outside Dallas swear Rock Browning of Retroair provides a great Porsche system (they have installed many) -- worth checking out before you decide :

Porsche 911 Air Conditioning

EMAIL : rockb@retroair.com

Good man!

I was in Dallas this week on a business trip. Rental car had been sitting in the sun all day while I was in a meeting. I drove from Richardson to DFW airport with the A/C on max and it struggled to keep up. And that is a "modern" A/C system!

Here in Atlanta we've had the mildest summer I can remember so I've managed to put off the A/C project for another year.

Charlie has a lot of satisfied customers. Hard to go wrong there...

PS - this is the most peaceful A/C thread I've read in... well, ever!

If your system is completely stock then I would use the parts from Griffiths. My '87 already had a Rennaire evaporator so all I added was a fender condenser from Zimms and replaced all my hoses with a full barrier hose kit also from Zimms so I did not have to use their hose splice system. My A/C works very well in the Houston area unless its 110 in the shade. My biggest problem is evaporator ice ups probably due to less that perfect placement of the capillary tube for the temp control. The past few weeks I have to turn it down and turn the air away from me to stay comfortable. I will say that my A/C works a lot better after I added a tail to the deck lid.

I am not an AC expert by any stretch of the imagination, but 300+ psi on the high side sounds, well... a bit on the high side. Maybe your expansion valve is clogged or malfunctioning?

Thinking this to, it's brand new tho'. Unless its bad from the start

I did this also, should have said that I bled off refrigerant and rechecked pressures and vent temps. Did this five times yesterday and there was no change in vent temps. High pressure dropped to around 250 and low pressure to 25 or so but like I said no change in vent temps

No wwest = more real info and no bullschitt.

My system is about stock capacity now, with serp evaporator and front condenser, but no additional condensers. I don't know much about pressures and such so I took it to a local A/C shop to be charged. It was in the low 80's when they did it, used 30 oz. of R134a, listed pressures of 125 high, 25 low on my receipt. Seems to work fine at those levels.

Details here - http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/757322-84-carrera-c-re-work-mild-climate.html

I may replace the TVX and try again

Ok I bit the bullet and am ordering replacement parts from PP. Little bit of a Frankenstein but after all my research this is what I settled on:

- Rennair evaporator .. couldn't see the $200 delta in performance with the Kuehl unit
- Kuehl Hurricane evaporator motor ... trust that this is the best motor on market
- backdated evaporator box (from eBay)
- Kuehl receiver drier ... not sold on benefit of Pro-cooler for another $230
- Kuehl front condenser ... didn't like the spacers required for Rennair Dessert Duty model

My existing Denso compressor is brand new.

Leaving the stock barrier hoses, they held vacuum for three days with no leaks so I am going to keep them and hopefully not regret this decision later. Also staying with stock deck condenser, I already have two Spal fans wired up from PO.

Thinking of buying Kuehl comp-cond barrier hose with hi-lo pressure switch or try to figure out a DYI approach for the switch. None of the venders sell this separately (anyone have clear instructions?)

So the plan is to wait for the parts, find a non-LSU game day and flush the system well ... clear out oil from compressor and refill with 5 oz of ester oil. After the parts are installed pull vacuum and hold for 24 hours. Refill with approx 30 oz R134, looking for low side pressure around 30-35 psi and high side around 230 psi assuming a 95 def ambient temp.

See any problems here?

Here's the one I used...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1376965816.jpg

Hey Arnie, source? How did you wire it?

Came from Nostalgic Air. Binary Switch w/ R-134a Discharge Port 7/16" - A/C Pressure Switch

Wiring is simple. disconnect the wire that goes to the compressor clutch, splice the switch in between. Harness to one side of the switch, other side of switch to the compressor.

I have one here in town, unused. PO routed my A/C weird with the underbelly condenser, and I can't use the Griffiths hose with the binary switch integrated into it.

You can have it for $125. I need to change paths and go with the switch that Arne2 posted :(

Are you keeping your factory NON-barrier hoses or have they been changed to barrier hoses already?

Holding a vacuum is important, but that is just 14 PSI. To really test how well the system holds pressure you need a nitrogen pressure rig. I pressurize mine to 250PSI and let it sit overnight.

The hose with the pressure switch from Kuhel is the easy way to add a pressure switch. If you have a local AC specialty shop that can make hoses it should be easy for them to add a T-fitting in the hose for a pressure switch.

If you are planning to keep your old OEM hoses I would suggest you think long and hard about that. I had to recharge my old stock system EVERY single year. After the upgrade I have not had to add any refrigerant in many years. The upgrade adds numerous connections with extra condensers. The only real change is new hoses.

You can pull out the old hoses and have a local AC shop make you new barrier hoses using the old ones as a guide. It is dirty and time consuming but I think it is well worth the effort. I just bought my hoses from Griffiths along with the entire package.

Ugh, i see you have a Carrera, I think they used o-ring connections instead of flare connections, I'm not sure if what I have will work for you. I have:
91157315002SPFLRS Compressor to Condenser Hose

The low side pressure cut off psi is acceptable,
however the high side cut of 398 psi is too high.

Correct I have o-ring fittings

911's up through 1983, factory installed parts are all flare fittings,
1984 an onward are all o-ring fittings.

Glen, keeping non barrier hoses ... I have not been losing any refrigerant according to die check performed about two months ago. If they don't hold I will change them later, all it will cost me is $45 in R134, I have my own gauges and vacuum pump.

Maybe obtuse on my part but if I spend $30 year on R134 that's a 10 year payout on barrier hose cost, plus labor. Am I missing something?